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Re: Frame-off restoration - Where to start?

To: "St=e9phane St-Amant" <steph71tr6@crosswinds.net>, " Triumph list" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Frame-off restoration - Where to start?
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Dec 99 09:25:39 -0800
>Here's the question: Where do I start???  

Begin with the end in mind.  Grab a sheet of paper and write down what it 
is that you want the end product to be. Be realistic.  Concourse winners 
or contenders are not driven cars.

Next go out to your car with lots of paper.  Go over your car one section 
at a time and write down what needs to be done to that section in order 
for your car to be what you want it to be in the end.
--------------

Tip #1

After market replacement parts may not fit properly and may have to be 
bent or filed to fit.
-------------

Tip #2
After market chrome is poorly done and will start rust pitting or pealing 
fairly soon.  You will be MUCH better off paying to get your old chrome 
rechromed by the best chromer you can find.
-----------------

Tip #2A
Your local Harley Davidson custom shoppe usually knows the best chromer 
in the area and how to order the highest quality chrome job.  Ask them.

--------------
Tip #3
Do not remove the body from the frame unless you need to do major work on 
the frame.  The frame aligns the body.  Lifting it off the frame and 
manipulating it can take it out of alignment and create poor panel fit.

Tip #4 Nothing you can do to the car will be as good as the original 
factory paint that was applied to the fresh metal.  What I mean is that 
the factory primer and paint does seal very well and if there is no rust 
in areas now you KNOW the metal underneath is dry and sealed.  If you 
take that functional paint away, moisture and impurities will get to the 
metal and that moisture can become the source of future rust where a 
working seal once existed.

I have seen too many down to bare metal restorations starting to bubble 
up rust soon after the restoration was completed.  I would advise to go 
down to bare metal ONLY in places where there original factory paint 
protection has been compromised.  Where the original paint is still 
sealing I would only go down far enough to provide a good grip for a 
covering paint.

That said, check the underside of your front & rear scuttles very closely 
as well as the underside of all other panels.  The factory painters may 
have skimped in places you can not see.
---------------


Take your list of things to be done and set them up as little projects.  
Figure you will need to get the deepest done first (You do not want to 
put on upholstery until the metal underneath is painted.  You do not want 
to paint the metal underneath until after the dents & rust have been 
removed..That kind of thing).  It will become obvious which ones can not 
be done until the one underneath it is done.  You should be sable to come 
up with a list of what needs to be done in order for the next thing to be 
done.

Now mark each task (sub project) as to which ones you feel you can/want 
to do and which ones to farm out.

SO now you know what needs to be done in what order.  Just take off 
whatever it takes to get to the deepest part & get that part done.  The 
rest will go from there.

If you want some inspiration (or to be frightened off) rear about my TR3A 
rebuild.

You can get to it by pressing the Triumph button at the bottom of my home 
page

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman


TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman 
http://www.overlander.net  

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937


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