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Re: TR3 Engine Head Removal

To: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Subject: Re: TR3 Engine Head Removal
From: "BOB KRAMER" <rgk@flash.net>
Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2002 10:02:57 -0600
Cc: "triumph mailing list" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Organization: Prodigy Internet
References: <3C456912.411B3523@lancnews.infi.net> <3C459F75.A551A83F@navcomtech.com>
What ever happened to the rope trick? Feed rope into both ends through the
spark plug hole and crank it over to pop the head off.

Bob Kramer
rgk@flash.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <ryoung@navcomtech.com>
Cc: "triumph mailing list" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2002 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: TR3 Engine Head Removal


> Scott :
>
> The dead blow mallet probably won't hurt, but IMO won't help either.
> I've also had trouble with the edge of the block crumbling away, if I
> pried between the head and block too enthusiastically.
>
> One technique that seemed to work fairly well for me was to make up a
> plate with bolts that thread into the rocker cover stud holes, and then
> pry between the plate and the top of the cylinder studs.  Soaking things
> in PB Blaster (or your favorite penetrating oil) may help too, as
> sometimes water gets into the area between the studs and head, causing
> all sorts of corrosion.
>
> Another that I've heard of is to pack #1 and #4 with rope through the
> spark plug holes, and then use the starter to turn the engine over.  The
> rope is soft enough to not hurt anything.  You may have to repeat this
> several times, turning the engine backwards by hand each time, and
> perhaps adding more rope as the head starts to come free.  You can use
> the battery, cables and solenoid off of the car to power the starter,
> the only thing you need to add is a longer ground cable which can be
> obtained at the local parts house (or junk yard).  May need to scrounge
> some shorter bolts too, since the bellhousing won't be there.
>
> You can also try removing the studs first, which makes it much easier to
> get the head off (but of course ruins the studs).
>
> Don't know about the engine stand, I've always pulled the head before I
> got to the stand.  But, you might be able to rig a suitable catch (nylon
> straps or a wooden platform) and turn the engine upside down to get
> gravity to help.  That head is durned heavy !
>
> Randall
>
> suhring wrote:
> >
> > I am having difficulty removing the head of the engine on the
> > '59 TR3 restoration.  The engine is currently on a 3 leg stand,
> > have removed the rocker, push rods and bolts.  I can't get the
> > seal to release.
> >
> > Will I be in trouble if I use a rubber dead blow mallet to "wack"
> > the head to get it to release?  Should I take the engine off the
> > stand so as to get better leverage with the engine on the ground?
> > Since I plan to have the head and block cleaned and checked out at
> > a local shop, should I let them do the dirty work?

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