I used a 10-32 self tapping machine screw and screwed it into the dust cap hole
and from there it
pushed onto the end of the axle. Didn't touch the dust cap with anything -- no
hammer no pliers
nothing. Just turned the screw with a simple flat blade screw driver. Ripped
the threads out of the
dust cap hole.
Then I srewed a sheet metal screw into it and used a slide hammer -- very
gently -- tap - tap - tap.
Ripped the threads out of the dust cap. Then took the hammer and screw driver
to it. Drove holes
into the side of it close the the base, stuck another screwdriver under the
screwdriver in the hole
to act as a fulcrum and pried the dust cap off. Did it on both sides of the
dust cap. It didn't come
out easy. Again, I can't imagine any threads through the dust cap hole being
stronger than the
resistance of the dust cap rim. These are original stock dust caps.
IMO, this is one crap design. Again, what on earth is wrong with a pry lip on
the edge of the dust
cap. "It ain't rocket science." I know -- I'm baying at the moon. No point in
doing that. If they
didn't cost about $6.00 each, I'd just buy a box of them.
Don Malling
Randall wrote:
>>There must be some differences in dust cap construction or how
>>they fit in the hub. My original
>>stock dust caps were in there hard engough that I can't imagine
>>machine threads or threads of any
>>kind being stronger than the resistance of the dust cap rim.
>
>
> All the screw has to do is distort the cap slightly, and it will slip right
> out. Hitting the cap with a screwdriver or trying to grab it with pliers
> will actually make it grip the hole more firmly.
>
> Randall
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