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RE: [TR] TR4A Engine Rebuild Update - Round 5

To: "TR Mailing List" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: [TR] TR4A Engine Rebuild Update - Round 5
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>
Date: Sat, 8 Apr 2006 16:48:35 -0700
> Specifically I ordered the 87mm liners, which came with Grant 86mm
> rings.  Is this correct?

Sure doesn't sound right to me.  Rings are sized by the bore they are supposed
to go into, the clearance should be built into the advertised size.  Besides 1mm
diametral clearance is WAY too big.  That's an end gap of some 0.120", while as
we were just discussing with Paul, the correct gap is around .010".

Measuring the gap, and adjusting if necessary, is an important part of any
rebuild.  As noted before, new rings are frequently supplied slightly oversize,
so they can be custom fitted to the bore in question.

> Can someone please point me to a source that
> discusses the principle of this liner/piston/rings system?  I need to
> get an idea of how tight is too tight?

Ring gap should be discussed in any shop manual.  Because the rings will expand
in operation, there must be a gap which you cannot judge by friction.  The
friction will be the same whether the end gap is .001" or 0.1".  You must check
the gap by inserting the ring in the cylinder (without the piston), making sure
it is square to the bore (a piston is a good tool for this) and measuring with
feeler gauges.  Since your liners are new, the gap should be identical at the
top and bottom of the bore ... but it never hurts to check.

> 2.  The car had copper Fo8 gaskets when I took it apart.  The Moss kit
> shipped with steel.  Which is best?

I like copper, but I'm not sure the difference is worth buying new gaskets for.

>  Seems like the answer would depend
> on whether I need to easily compress them or not.  Copper would be good
> if my liners were too proud of the block, steel if not?

IMO the protrusion must be right, on both sides, or you'll never keep it sealed.
If memory serves, the steel gaskets are supposed to have a plastic coating on
them, that provides the correct crush.

> 3. What the hell is Wellseal?

It is a brand name for a black, tarry substance.  You can buy it from TRF, but
Permatex classic "Aviation Form-a-gasket" works just as well (maybe better).
Hylomar works good too, in most places where Wellseal is recommended.

> as well as a substance to soak the rear bearing felts strips.

Permatex is a gasket shellac, so is exactly the right stuff for the felt strips.
Hylomar or silicone will NOT work well here, you need something liquid enough to
soak into the felt.  Note that some gasket sets don't have enough felt supplied,
so be sure you have enough to fill the hole when it's tamped down tightly.  BFE
sells extra felt.

> 4. Does anyone have an engine assembly lube they favor and recommend?

Think I used "CV joint grease" last time, seemed to work fine.

> 5. I recently read a post that mentioned that none of the usual
> suppliers sell a rear oil seal mandrel with the accurate dimension.  Who
> does?

I don't know of anyone, although I'll make my own if I ever get to that point
again.  Hey Joe, want another tool to make ?

> 6. Should I use Glyptol inside the crankcase?  Inside the water jacket?

I don't.

Randall


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