Randall:
Although I agree with 90% or so of what you said, I do think that a
clarification might be inorder for some of the Listers.
<<You must check the gap by inserting the ring in the cylinder (without the
piston), making sure
it is square to the bore (a piston is a good tool for this) and measuring
with
feeler gauges.>>
My point to raise here is that what the "builder" does is to insert said
ringless piston IN the bore and THEN insert the ring to be measured. Push
said ring down on to the top of the piston. That WILL "square" said ring to
the liner (or cylinder" bore.
Back the piston away and then you measure the "ring gap".
<< Since your liners are new, the gap should be identical at the
top and bottom of the bore ... but it never hurts to check>
Without any DOUBT!!!! When I did do my own work (and my machine shop also
does) I always check Top, Center and Bottom to the rings "travel" + .5"
(where possible<G>).
<<> 4. Does anyone have an engine assembly lube they favor and recommend?
Think I used "CV joint grease" last time, seemed to work fine.>>
The ONLY thing I don't like about that is that the stuff is TOO thick. I
have used "cam lube" for several decades. I also have a friend that used to
use STP!! (Big NASCAR/Petty fan!! Andy G. Fan also!!)
<<> 6. Should I use Glyptol inside the crankcase? Inside the water jacket?
I don't.>>
Only on a race motor where "recovery of oil" "could" be way more important
than on a street motor.
All that said, I quit doing motors (which I LOVE and ENJOY doing) a number
of years ago. Reason??
WARRANTY!!! Short block probs are NOT mine<VBG>!!! Never had a prob but
did have ONE cust.... Never mind.
Also had one cust. feel that "un-do" inorder to check my work was necessary.
Didn't retorque rod bolts right and I got to eat it. Never again. Also,
just for him, I handed him a LONG block!! Warranty VOID if paint was
disturbed in ANY manner.
Ed
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