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[TR] TR6 Jacking Points

To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] TR6 Jacking Points
From: Don Spence <dkspence@telus.net>
Date: Sat, 11 Feb 2012 13:26:53 -0700
Tim
  Cinder blocks are not a good idea as they can and do fail.  Better  
to get a 6x6 or 8x8 inch post and cut it into 12 or 16 inch lengths  
and use those instead.

Solis is safer.

Don


On 10-Feb-12, at 6:38 PM, triumphs-request@autox.team.net wrote:

> From: Tim Gaines <mtgaines@presby.edu>
> Date: February 10, 2012 4:29:29 PM MST (CA)
> To: Triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Fwd: Re:  TR6 Jacking Points
>
>
> Well, I certainly wouldn't get under or reach far under the car while
> jacking no matter where the jack is placed.  My floor jack handle
> reaches to the side and lets me pump it without being underneath,
> though I have to admit there is little range of motion at
> first.  Those rails are close, and I've never had a hint that the
> board (a sturdy one of course) was close to failing; no creaks or
> cracks.  The fact that the car goes straight up means that the front
> stands, already in place, don't tip to the side at all.  That was
> something that always scared me.  Believe me, when I contemplate
> going underneath my car, I have a healthy fear.  I don't rely on just
> the jack stands either.  I slide cinder blocks underneath once the
> stands are set.
>
> Tim

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