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121. Re: Busted axle shaft?!! (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 09:34:02 +1000; These are early half shafts. The later shaft is BTA501 Mike p.s. I've always broken the outer flange yet most of you break the splines. Interesting. I guess you guys just aren't pushing hard enough; /html/spridgets/1999-04/msg01347.html (8,617 bytes)
122. Re: Busted tranny..NOT! (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 09:40:17 +1000; If you don't have oil in the brake drums and the hubs spin freely without any clicking or grabbing, leave the bearings and seals alone. Otherwise install new wheel bearings, seals, gaskets and o-rin; /html/spridgets/1999-04/msg01348.html (8,543 bytes)
123. Re: stubborn axle oil leak (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 14:36:36 +1000; I'll just add that Loctite makes a "Retaining Compound" that will stop the bearing spinning in slightly worn hubs. It cured the oil leak (seep) I was seeing via this path. Mike; /html/spridgets/1999-04/msg01623.html (11,547 bytes)
124. Re: Inquiring Minds Want To Know (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 14:40:25 +1000; I run an almost totally standard MkIII Sprite. The only exception is a set of extractors. It has the most popular of period enhancements - iron oxide - in all the factory designed places. It runs at; /html/spridgets/1999-04/msg01624.html (12,710 bytes)
125. Re: offset bushings (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:03:44 +1100; It depends which tyres you run. If you run Hoosier Street TDs, then about 0.5 - 1 degree of neg camber is optimal with a lowered stiffer sprite. If you run A008RS then 5 is close to optimal. Mike han; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00502.html (9,721 bytes)
126. Re: offset bushings (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:06:20 +1100; With too much neg camber on the street, you prematurely wear the inside of the tyre. Around 2 degrees (neg camber) seems a pretty good compromise for road radials on the street. Mike --Original Messa; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00504.html (8,540 bytes)
127. Re: Previous Offset Bushing Question (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:14:30 +1100; One thing to note about lowering the car is that you introduce bump steer. Unlike most racetracks, streets are often bumpy and the car can get pretty darty under brakes if bump steer becomes signific; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00505.html (9,924 bytes)
128. Painting Question (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 11:31:08 +1100; I've just finished stripping the bodyshell for my new HAN9 race/rally car. I'm looking for advice in what sort of paint to use in the engine bay and for the wheel wells (you know where the wheels sit; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00507.html (7,875 bytes)
129. Re: camber? (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 15:18:25 +1100; Sprites come with (theoretically) 0 degrees camber. This is pretty OK with crossply tyres but radials like some negative camber in normal cornering. Add to this ideal the fact that spridget's suspens; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00526.html (8,556 bytes)
130. Re: offset bushings (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 15:20:45 +1100; Good question! Unfortunately the only source of information that I've found reliable are the tyre tech guys who hang out at racetracks. I get a starting setup from them and then finetune with a pyrom; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00527.html (8,564 bytes)
131. Re: camber? (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Thu, 11 Mar 1999 15:23:14 +1100; This gives static camber but doesn't help for body roll. In fact, if I recall correctly the resultant geometry produces a higher rate of positive camber change with body roll! Mike; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00528.html (7,814 bytes)
132. Re: Camber et al (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Fri, 12 Mar 1999 11:54:46 +1100; It is great to see Peter Westcott on this list - he is a member of my club - the Austin Healey Sprite Drivers Club; he has a few Sprites (Bugeye and MkIV and Angela has a MkII); and is a very knowled; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00577.html (9,783 bytes)
133. Re: sprite update, next project, springs, (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 10:44:59 +1100; Ah yes, but most Spridgets exhibit asymmetric rear sag, what do you do about that? Mike; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00641.html (8,970 bytes)
134. Re: factory discs? (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 10:49:12 +1100; "Sebring Sprites" were not BMC! They were built by Sprinzel at both Speedwell and at Donald healey Motors. The book "Spritely Years" by John Sprinzel and Tom Coulthard tells all. It also lists the va; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00643.html (11,772 bytes)
135. Re: factory discs? (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 10:51:27 +1100; The Sebring Sprites did use the Girling front disk on wire wheels. Again, these were DHM cars, not factory cars. Mike --Original Message-- From: Peter C. <nosimport@mailbag.com> To: Herb_Goede@amsinc; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00644.html (13,171 bytes)
136. Re: SPAX shock conversion (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 10:00:16 +1100; I've had a good set of lever arm shocks on my bugeye before and after I used the Spax tele conversion from Mini Mania. As you might have deduced by now, I took them off because a *good* set of armst; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00739.html (8,666 bytes)
137. Rear disk brakes (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 10:22:52 +1100; "There were a couple of one offs with rear discs, but certainly not on Mark ones and not in any way official or available - could possibly have been Dunlops from the Twin cam MGA." He also confirmed; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00741.html (6,984 bytes)
138. Oil and Oil coolers (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 10:43:22 +1100; Over on the MGs list, there has been a discussion of the usefulness or otherwise of oil coolers on the street. One lister, David Darby, reported that "During summer operation ambient temps can reach; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00744.html (9,183 bytes)
139. Re: Oil and Oil coolers (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 12:03:06 +1100; I'm not sure there is anything missing here. David's measurements were after the oil cooler, 160F to 195F, it would not be unreasonable to expect a temp before the oil cooler of say 180F to 225F? I k; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00748.html (13,565 bytes)
140. Re: Oil and Oil coolers (score: 1): Author: "Mike Gigante" <mikeg@vicnet.net.au>; Date: Mon, 15 Mar 1999 14:08:29 +1100; This is what I do on recommendation of the engine builder. Use good mineral oil for first 500 miles after rebuild then replace oil filter, drain oil and fill with synthetic. Couldn't be simpler. Oh,; /html/spridgets/1999-03/msg00758.html (10,313 bytes)

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