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101. Re: STRANGE vibration! (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Tue, 16 Oct 2001 19:39:35 -0400; Nolan makes some good points. I'm wondering if you could isolate the conditions better. If you turn the engine off and coast at the troublesome speed, does it change? Can you reproduce it by revving; /html/spitfires/2001-10/msg00374.html (8,126 bytes)
102. Re: Clutch bleeding (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Tue, 23 Oct 2001 20:32:28 -0400; Tim, it could be slop in the clutch pedal pivot point or in the pin that connects the clutch pedal to the master cylinder. Loose or bunched carpet could be preventing full action. Check that the sla; /html/spitfires/2001-10/msg00526.html (7,859 bytes)
103. Re: Fuel economy in a Spit. (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 18:35:58 -0400; And of course this is based on the UK model with minimal emissions and safety gear. It DOES seem strange since the AFAIK the axle ratio, while changing for different years or markets, was never diff; /html/spitfires/2001-09/msg00032.html (9,844 bytes)
104. Re: first ever spit... (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Sun, 02 Sep 2001 21:06:42 -0400; I would check the VTR site which has a great buyers guide at http://www.vtr.org/buyers-guide/index.html#consider. Some thing that I would personally add are: Check for rust where the radius arms for; /html/spitfires/2001-09/msg00038.html (8,599 bytes)
105. Re: Ok, I'm stumped (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Sat, 08 Sep 2001 09:53:46 -0400; Some ideas: The gas gauge on my 78 is inaccurate, it won't go below 1/4, so that is a possibility, especially since both times it happened with the gauge reading 1/4, you needed to add gas before Bit; /html/spitfires/2001-09/msg00171.html (10,353 bytes)
106. Re: front suspension renewal (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Tue, 18 Sep 2001 12:40:21 -0400; You might want to consider removing the spring/shock assembly in whole and then taking it to a garage to deal with the spring which can be dangerous. Since you're doing most of the labor, it shouldn; /html/spitfires/2001-09/msg00354.html (9,683 bytes)
107. Alternator Help (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2001 19:58:24 -0400; My alternator stopped charging at some point in the recent past as I found out today when I ran the battery down to the point where the engine died. I had no warning as the little red dash light had; /html/spitfires/2001-09/msg00481.html (7,242 bytes)
108. RE: trunnions (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Thu, 27 Sep 2001 13:39:24 -0400; Purely my own .02, but I always assumed this was to maintain height symmetry for both right and left hand turns. Otherwise you would rise the front of the car a half inch in right hand turns and low; /html/spitfires/2001-09/msg00496.html (8,100 bytes)
109. Re: my spit no go (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Fri, 28 Sep 2001 23:10:24 -0400; and I'm also assuming that you're describing a severely slipping clutch, with just enough engagement to make an unhappy mechanical noise, but not to actually move the car. I've had this happen twice; /html/spitfires/2001-09/msg00532.html (8,904 bytes)
110. RE: Convertible Top (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Thu, 02 Aug 2001 20:58:21 -0400; It's very simple to install a top. It's not so simple to install a top _properly_, at least not for me. I've done it 3 times and have yet to get a water tight, draft free seal around the door glass.; /html/spitfires/2001-08/msg00070.html (7,831 bytes)
111. Re: rebuilding trunnions (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Fri, 03 Aug 2001 13:39:16 -0400; Front or back? I had similar problems with rear trunnion bushes a year or two ago. And now I'm getting a clunking over bumps that makes me think that forcing them wasn't conducive to longevity. Greg; /html/spitfires/2001-08/msg00085.html (7,601 bytes)
112. Re: Head gasket (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Mon, 13 Aug 2001 21:29:55 -0400; I'm not necessarily disagreeing, but am genuinely curious. IIRC, this is not a factory procedure, but has become generally accepted dogma. However to my way of thinking, if Triumph wanted 46 ft/lbs; /html/spitfires/2001-08/msg00190.html (7,981 bytes)
113. Re: Wanted: Bottle Reader (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Fri, 24 Aug 2001 19:54:06 -0400; Surely none. I mean even if you caused wear at an accelerated rate of 10X, it's still only the equivalent of 1500 miles. Wasn't a lighter oil used in new cars for break-in years ago by most mfg with; /html/spitfires/2001-08/msg00312.html (7,639 bytes)
114. Engine bearings help! (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Tue, 03 Jul 2001 22:32:42 -0400; I'm currently stuck in the middle of this job and looking for list To correct a low oil pressure problem, I decided to replace the main and rod bearings. I'm doing this through the oil pan with the e; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00054.html (8,060 bytes)
115. Re: Engine bearings help! (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2001 02:12:02 -0400; Thanks to all those who responded. The problem turned out to be the DPO with the "P" standing for "Present" in this case. The con rod bearing caps have indents for the tabs in the bearings. In lieu o; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00059.html (7,662 bytes)
116. Re: Tight Brake Hub (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 10:13:24 -0400; I gotta go with Doug on this one. IIRC, the manual also states the same thing. You adjust the handbrake by adjusting the brakes (it's easier anyway). _Only_ after that, would you consider a separate; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00335.html (8,362 bytes)
117. Re: Tight Brake Hub (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 11:53:13 -0400; I certainly can't disagree with that! B-) We're probably saying the same thing in different ways. To tie it back to the original question and response, the point is that you have to make sure the re; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00343.html (7,914 bytes)
118. Re: By-Pass Valve (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 22:23:08 -0400; There is a good article on the VTR site at: http://www.vtr.org/maintain/zs-tech-tips.html Greg Rowe _________________________________________________________________; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00355.html (6,883 bytes)
119. Re: Have a look at your rotor arm (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2001 22:29:06 -0400; We would also accept the answer number 4 spark plug for full credit. (depending on which stroke you're on). If you can't rotate the distributor sufficiently to bring the right tower in line, it is a; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00356.html (7,454 bytes)
120. Re: Smokin' !!! (Once again, long!) (score: 1): Author: "Greg Rowe" <growe58@hotmail.com>; Date: Fri, 27 Jul 2001 13:23:20 -0400; With similiar symptoms, my problem was bad teeth on the starter jamming on the flywheel. You can test this by trying to turn over the engine by hand. If it won't turn freely, this could be the proble; /html/spitfires/2001-07/msg00486.html (8,888 bytes)

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