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1. [oletrucks] Electrical terminals (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Wed, 09 Nov 2005 15:37:55 -0500; Try www.waytekwire.com and www.delcity.net They have things like headlamp connectors (and all sorts of weatherproof and spade stuff), but proprietary connectors are going to be hard to find. Keith ol; /html/oletrucks/2005-11/msg00016.html (6,705 bytes)
2. re: [oletrucks] Fuel and Brake Lines (score: 1): Author: Keith V Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2005 23:42:12 -0400; Huh, I think it sent before I was done. Stainless won't take well to a double flare. I have used the 37 degree Parker Rolo Flair tool with great success. It's about 90 bucks at McMaster or one of the; /html/oletrucks/2005-06/msg00082.html (8,324 bytes)
3. re: [oletrucks] Lock cylinder removal from a 57 3100? (score: 1): Author: Keith V Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2005 23:28:33 -0400; If you have a key, push a paperclip into the hole on the face while turning the key to the left. It should pop out. If you have no key, it gets more interesting. You have to drill the side in the rig; /html/oletrucks/2005-06/msg00086.html (7,020 bytes)
4. [oletrucks] PCM / Wiring Harness (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 21:40:31 -0500; I haven't put an LT1 in anything, but I have wired up fuel injection stuff on my oletruck and some race cars. Get a wiring diagram for whatever the harness came out of, trace out the wires you care a; /html/oletrucks/2005-01/msg00078.html (7,487 bytes)
5. [oletrucks] ac in a tf (score: 1): Author: Keith V Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2004 22:31:18 -0500; The almost easy solution would be to use an aftermarket evaporator and get the rest of the stuff at a junkyard, that is, the compressor and brackets. Absolutely buy the reciever drier new. The R5 com; /html/oletrucks/2004-11/msg00081.html (7,738 bytes)
6. [oletrucks] Re: TF lever on firewall (score: 1): Author: Keith V Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2004 00:19:59 -0400; I had one of those too. It wasn't real clear how it worked, but it looked like a windshield washer widget. The lever squeezed a bulb that pumped air or water. There was no (working) check valve there; /html/oletrucks/2004-09/msg00032.html (7,076 bytes)
7. [oletrucks] door hinges (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Fri, 06 Aug 2004 15:16:14 -0400; Anybody have an extra set of 1955-59 lower hinges sitting around? Alternatively, does anybody have comments about the quality of the repros? Keith oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built be; /html/oletrucks/2004-08/msg00035.html (6,513 bytes)
8. [oletrucks] new TF doors (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2004 11:56:17 -0400; I have seen this asked, but never seen a response. Has anybody heard things good or bad about the new 1955-59 doors? Comments on fit are especially welcome. Keith oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM; /html/oletrucks/2004-07/msg00010.html (6,546 bytes)
9. [oletrucks] new TF doors (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2004 15:06:28 -0400; Has anybody the new 1955-59 doors yet? Has anybody heard good or bad things about them? I have seen this asked before, but have never seen a response. Keith oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM truck; /html/oletrucks/2004-06/msg00224.html (5,953 bytes)
10. [oletrucks] 56 Chevy Frame Painting (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Wed, 07 Apr 2004 09:49:00 -0400; I had my frame sandblasted and primed for $125. At the time, I thought that was a lot of money. Now I would pay twice that. Most sandblasters will paint and prime as well as sandblast. There is no be; /html/oletrucks/2004-04/msg00054.html (8,246 bytes)
11. [oletrucks] turn signal cup (score: 1): Author: Keith V Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 12:47:35 -0400; I have an original but crusty turn signal cup for a 1956 truck that somebody wants to buy. Any suggestions for a fair price? I know there's repros for 100, so I suspect an old crusty one isn't all th; /html/oletrucks/2004-04/msg00071.html (6,704 bytes)
12. [oletrucks] junkyard welder (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 23:32:11 -0500; Welding aluminum is right out without a high frequency, high voltage superimposed on the output. Before the rectifier, the alternator output is 3 phase anyway, which isn't really useful in this case.; /html/oletrucks/2004-03/msg00050.html (7,456 bytes)
13. [oletrucks] Re: re-wiring (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Mon, 05 Jan 2004 15:28:59 -0600; Personally, I wouldn't put it under the seat. The wires are probably not long enough unless you get one designed for trunk use, the access under the seat sucks, and there will be a large bundle of wi; /html/oletrucks/2004-01/msg00033.html (10,640 bytes)
14. [oletrucks] free axle (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2003 13:25:13 -0500; There are probably already too many of these out there, but I have a 1956 1/2 ton front axle free to anybody that wants it. I will deliver in the Houston, TX area. It is complete with hubs, drums, le; /html/oletrucks/2003-06/msg00473.html (6,613 bytes)
15. Re: [oletrucks] a/c cold to warm (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Mon, 19 May 2003 23:46:20 -0400; The evaporator could be freezing up. This cuts the airflow, and the air then feels a lot warmer. What compressor are you using? Some are fixed displacement, others are variable. The fixed ones need t; /html/oletrucks/2003-05/msg00379.html (7,794 bytes)
16. RE: [oletrucks] amps to volts (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2003 17:50:28 -0400; A high output alternator might cause problems, but the standard 10SI won't. It peaks at about 35 amps. Do remember that not all the current in the electrical system goes through the ammeter. When the; /html/oletrucks/2003-04/msg00229.html (7,652 bytes)
17. Re: [oletrucks] ford rear axles. (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2003 01:27:51 -0400; I picked up a Chrysler 8 3/4 at a swap meet for 100 bucks. It was already the right width, at something like 61.5. It had good drums and gears, though they were 2.93:1. I bought a set of 3.55 gears f; /html/oletrucks/2003-04/msg00397.html (7,607 bytes)
18. RE: [oletrucks] Any more advice on IFS or Rear End swaps for TF (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Fri, 03 Jan 2003 12:04:51 -0600; I gave up on finding a 9 inch of the right width. There were some trucks out there with the right width, but they had the ford 5 on 5 bolt pattern. I heard that there was a Chrysler E body had a widt; /html/oletrucks/2003-01/msg00033.html (11,059 bytes)
19. [oletrucks] frame width (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Tue, 26 Nov 2002 14:27:35 -0500; I beleve the width to be 34 inches outside to outside, but my truck is 1500 miles away. Keith oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959; /html/oletrucks/2002-11/msg00355.html (6,663 bytes)
20. [oletrucks] Electronic transmission w/ mechanical speedo (score: 1): Author: Keith Durand <kdurand@MIT.EDU>; Date: Wed, 14 Aug 2002 00:23:34 -0500; I think the mechanical speedo can be hooked up to the 4L60E. The gear may have to be pressed on though, meaning the tailhousing would have to come off. None of that may be an issue; it is for sure on; /html/oletrucks/2002-08/msg00204.html (7,737 bytes)

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