Some years ago there was a discussion whether to use DOT 5 brake fluid in the 100 or not. As far as I understand you should make some modifications to the brake master cylinder when using DOT 5 fluid
I use Silicone DOT5 brake fluid in my 100 (as in any of my other classic cars) for about 10 years. When filled in first I realised a problem with the master cylinder. I had to change the seals in it
Replace all rubber parts. Effectively rebuilt all your wheel cilinders, callipers, master brake cilinder using new seals and renew/replace the rubber brake hoses, preferrably with Teflon SS braiding
??????? Why is this true for the 100 and not other versions? What is different about the rubber components in the 100? I put DOT 5 in my BJ8 and E-Type years ago and did nothing beforehand with the c
Precisely none. Silcone fluid in my TF and TR3 for over 20 years. Ed Woods _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html Healeys@autox.team.net http
I'm with Kees Oudesluys on this. You are a lucky guy, 'cause in all other cars where I have seen the results of mixed fluids the rubber swells, goes very soft and wrinkles because of the swelling. I
Although DOT5 has its advantages in: -not stripping paint like DOT3/4 (I do not know if this also true for DOT5.1) -less detoriation being not or less hygroscopic -higher dry and wet boiling point -l
More than me who are lucky. I've known several Healey and Jag folks (including me)who dumped the DOT 4 and put in the DOT 5 directly in with NO resulting problems at all. == Tom, I'm with Kees Oudesl
You should never fill up with DOT5 if you previously used DOT3 or 4. You run the very serious risk that the seals will perish and the system will leak like a sieve. Thus you have to replace all the
Most of my friends use DOT5 and half of them just put DOT 4 out, cleaned a bit and filled in DOT 5 and it worked and still works for 100000nd of miles. I changed it in my cars when restored a car. So
Do you have any kind of authoritative cite for this claim, or is this something that everyone just "knows"? Inquiring minds want to know. I have never heard this before. Rick Sent from my iPhone ____
Most times we just used an air compressor to pump plenty of air through the system. If you are careful you may clean and dry the master and wheel cylinders separately. One of my more careful friends
Since alcohol is hygroscopic (absorbs water), when I switched from DOT 3 to DOT 5, after draining the DOT3 I flushed a couple quarts of isopropyl rubbing alcohol through my brake and clutch systems b
I've only seen anecdotal evidence of the so-called degradation of existing rubber seals by changing to silicone fluids. Many sources say there is no worry at all. Others say that external parts like
It is something that everyone should know. Ask producers and restorers. Google. I am sure that there are proper research results somewhere. I do not need them as I have seen it happen several times.
Could someone tell me the chemical products that are made by mixing the two that supposedly reacts with the rubber seals? To me it either reacts or it doesn't, and it did not with mine. Now--if it ta
less water absorption is a negative??? And--my pedals are in no way spongy. Sorry to defend DOT 5 so strongly, but seems everything I hear bad about it has not happened to me in a very long time of s
The bottle of DOT 5 that I used in my cars years ago warns to not use it in brake systems containing DOT 3/4. It does not say what will happen. My guess is that if you drain the old 3/4 fluid out pre
Absolutely not--mine is DEFINITELY DOT 5. == It is something that everyone should know. Ask producers and restorers. Google. I am sure that there are proper research results somewhere. I do not need
Did you use DOT 5 or DOT5.1? DOT5.1 does not have any advers effects on systems with DOT4 previously. If the rubbers do react they do so rather quickly. They may go soft and may not leak if not enoug