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Re: TR6: PI Metering Unit adjustment question

To: 6pack@autox.team.net, Bernard Robbins <brobbins@wlg.nec.co.nz>
Subject: Re: TR6: PI Metering Unit adjustment question
From: Tony Gordon <tgordon@saginaw-city.k12.mi.us>
Date: Mon, 05 Jun 2000 23:59:49 -0400
Bernard,

Good advice.  I had to check something else with Mike Pumford in the UK, 
today, and asked him for his read on this --- he pointed out that an early 
TR6 rarely will generate more than 9-11" of Hg, and the later one, not much 
more than that anyway, and that he'd leave it alone until it had run.  Like 
you, he pointed out that the vacuum setting method isn't too accurate 
anyway, and that he uses a Lucas calibration unit (he said there are only a 
few in existance!), but a dyno would get there as well (but V expensive in 
MI). So I will leave it as it is until she fires up.

Mike did give me a little gem of a tip for PI's:  While we were chatting, 
he asked if I had the M/U control stop with a paddle shape at the end, or 
the pin type (mine is the later type with the paddle). Mike told me that 
for a number of years, Lucas (and others like him) could never work out why 
the later type M/Us would suddenly go out of spec on the test rig, and then 
10 minutes later be back in spec.  After a while, Mike worked out that the 
paddle shape can momentarily block the inlet port to the fuel chamber in 
the rotor, and cause a low fuel feed for that cycle.  Solution: grind the 
outer part of the paddle down so it is a smaller dia.  he doesn't take it 
down to a pin size (like the old one) but takes enough meat off the outer 
edges so it will allow fuel to flow freely.  Downside is that the paddle 
end wears slightly faster than the standard paddle type, but as Mike 
pointed out, you'd have to do about a million miles to notice.

Maybe this tip'll undisgrace your '6! (intrigued ...)

Tony

>Hi Tony,
>
>I don't think I would be too worried about it. Probably it means you will
>have a rich idle. Worst case it will be like running around with the cold
>start out.If you are running a standard cam, this may cause problems when
>starting. If you are running a lumpy cam, the idle will be rich anyway.
>
>I've found the best way is to set it up on the bench as you have done, and
>then try and find a friendly garage who have a dyno and gas analyser so you
>can fine tune it.  I'll try and dig out some dyno info tonight when I get
>home, but from memory, %CO should be around 1.5 - 2% at idle.
>
>Hope this is helpful...
>
>Bernard Robbins
>2500 PI (soon to be EFI)
>TR6 PI (still in disgrace)


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