Charles,
Some other ideas
Measure the voltage at the "points" side of the coil to ground, while
manually opening the points. The voltae should go up. The voltage wil be
something less than battery terminal voltage.
The 8 volts between the point plate and the coil tell me that you have a
VERY bad connection between the plate and the coil. Or that the new points
have a very poor contact surface. There should be 0 (zero) volts between
the coil and the contact plate. There should be zero volts from the contact
plate to ground when the points are closesd and as above something less than
battery goltage when they are open
I found the wire from the spade lug on the distributor to the points plate
was frayed/damaged and was shorting to the plate.
The Condenser is a required part of the circuit. it is what sets up the
"ringing" that creates the pulse that is the spark. So a bad one will cause
problems, but your problem is probably a bad connection/wire
Steve Hanselman
Manager, Defense Systems
Datagate Incorporated
+1.775.882.1313 x253 (voice)
+1.775.882.1689 (fax)
Stephen.Hanselman@datagateinc.com
tr6@kc4sw.com
Date: Sat, 11 May 2002 19:47:00 -0800
From: Charles Shaw <charlie.shaw@acsalaska.net>
Subject: No spark
After finally getting the broken pipe from the block, thanks to Bob Lang
with the correct size and thread pitch, I got everything put back together.
New tires, new hoses, new plugs, new plug wires, new rotor,condenser and
points, etc. (they really love me at TRF now) <grin>
I have no spark at the plugs. I read 8.49 volts across the coil. The points
are set at .15 and make and break when the engine spins but nothing at the
plugs. I also get 8.49 volts between the coil and the points plate. Any
suggestions would be greatly appreciated, I only have 18 hours of daylight
now and the car has been in the garage up on jack stands since last
October. In other words I am real anxious to get out on the road. Thanks
for any help.
Charles Shaw
75 TR6
CF39093UO
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