>>=srt@aerospace.aero.org
>=sfisher@wsl.dec.com
>>The rebuild may be delayed for a few weeks. I'm on jury duty for 10+
>>days starting this Monday. The timing isn't bad, actually, since I'd
>>prefer for the current cold weather to end before starting the rebuild
>>anyway.
You lucky dog. I managed to not be able to talk my way out of a case
scheduled to run till the end of March. I've thought about vomitting
on the shoes of the prosecutor ... wait, this isn't chunkstyle, so
I'll leave out the details.
>In the last month, I've pulled three MGB engines and one
>Chevy 350. In all four cases we pulled the radiator. In
>the MGs, the radiator is held in by six bolts, two stays,
>and two hoses.
Scott hasn't yet had the pleasure of pulling a stock MGB engine,
though. You have to take the entire radiator bracket/shroud out,
which involves eight bolts, not six, and disconnecting the oil cooler
since the hoses run through the shroud.
>And if you don't take ten minutes to drain the
>oil out of the engine before you pull it, your girlfriend
>will give you the Second Scream when she sees the oil stains
>all over the carpet of her car when you put the engine in on
>its side and the oil leaks out the pushrod holes...
For the record, I will state that Linda didn't scream, she simply
told me to clean out the back of the car and take the carpet to a dry
cleaner. I think she was worried about which end of the Tercel I'd
remove an engine from if she screamed ...
>Do you want to keep this car? Do you like it a lot?
> [ ... ] There are
>all-metal self-lockers that Andy used to hold down the
>head on his race motor; they're suitable for high
>temperature use (unlike nylocs). They aren't too cheap
>but they're really, really cool.
They are, but I continue to use stock hardware for such applications
on street cars. As you get near the torque spec, these nuts tend to
grab the stud and twist them a little. I can handle snapping a few
studs in race engine building, they're a pain in the ass when
assembling your own car.
>Order a complete set of cylinder head studs now. You're
>bound to break, strip, bend, or chew up at least a couple
>of them, especially the ones on the manifold.
Order all the studs, and use the new ones. As I said before, head
studs and the like are intended to stretch as they're torqued. I
wouldn't trust stretching them too many times ...
> - Two *good* Crescent wrenches (we've taken to calling them
> Whitworth wrenches in Team Fizzball), one 10" and one 6";
> get the US-made Craftsman or better. Make sure they're
> forged steel and not cast bronze with plating on them.
A tip for extending the life of your Whitworth wrenches: Unless you
don't have room in your application, turn them so the sliding jaw is
getting less of the load. I thought this was understood, but have
seen people use them backwards so often, I thought I'd mention it. I
will now make a sorry attempt to include pictures.
/\ /\
#| |X X| |#
# \/ X X \/ #
XXXXXXX XXXXXXX
XX XX
XX -> this way XX <- this way
XX XX
Where # is the sliding jaw, and the Xs are the wrench, including the
fixed jaw. The arrows are showing direction of handle travel.
andy
|