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Re: dash removal

To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: dash removal
From: Tom Hendricksen <tom@fransfancies.com>
Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2003 17:38:01 -0800
David,

Removing the dash is not extremely difficult, but you will have a little fun.

Of course you need to remove the steering wheel , turn signal/ignition
switch cover, and the center console from the car.  Be very careful
with those white connectors on your center console.  They are very
brittle and it is very possible that you are going to have them break
up in your hand.  I had to replace all of these with .063" nylon Molex
connectors before I could reconnect the center console wiring (I did
not wait to replace these connectors.  I did it before I removed the
dash).  Remove the lower dash panel under the steering column.

Remove the three screws holding the heater controls on.  Now is the time to pay
attention to the heater cables.  You cannot replace them if the dash is on the
car.  I made new heater control cables using 0.055" piano wire purchased from a
local hobby shop, and 1.8 mm ID bicycle control cable jack purchased at a bike
shop.  Very smooth and works great.

Unscrew the oil line inside of the firewall.  There is a junction
there.  Failure to do this will make the dash hard to pull back
towards you.  Don't ask how I know.

Remove the hand throttle knob and nut.  Unplug the wiper switch and ignition
switch wiring.  These are good connectors and you should not have problems with
them.

Remove your steering wheel column.  Watch for spacers on the clamp
just behind the dash.  Someone did not do that on mine and I have dash
damage from the column being too close to the padded dash.  That is
about the next thing I have to fix now that I realize what they did,
or did not do.

Check the bottom of the dash for screws to the body.  I think there are two on
the right side, but the panel you removed took care of the left side.

Now you should be ready for the 7/16" bolts under the windshield.  I
used a very small socket that used an allen wrench as a handle at
first, then learned that I really could get an offset box wrench on
all of the screw heads.  When you put it back together you need to
know that the captive nuts on the body are free to float around.  you
need to use a piece of wire (remember the piano wire?) and bend it
into a tool to center the nut under the hole on the dash.

Bring the dash back gently and watch for anything that wants to hang
up on things.  This is a good time to check or replace the dash lights
and anything else you ever thought you wanted to do while you are
there.  Be sure you pad your dash wherever it contacts other interior
parts such as the gear shift handle or parking brake.

As you might have noticed this turned into what I called the ever
expanding project I thought would be fairly simple.  A new set of
heater control cables, cleaned up heater box, replaced heater valve,
new heater core, replacement tach, stereo tape radio, power antenna
and stereo speaker wiring later I finally put it back together.
During the harness repair I installed a new stereo tape radio, power
antenna and related wiring, and included the heavy duty speaker wiring
into the harness connections and tape wrap.  Most of this was not
planned for but was done because the opportunity was convenient.  If I
remember correctly I just wanted to fix the heater controls.

Today I fired up the car for the first time this year.  Along with all
of the above I changed the head gasket, sent the carbs to Keith for a
good rebuild, and attended to several other little details.  It ran
great for over an hour, had a couple of minor oil leaks that were
caused by slightly loose nuts, and everything held water.  Now to put
the Miata seats I picked up last week, adjust the valves and carbs,
and it will be ready to become a daily driver until gas prices go
down.

Tom
69 2000
Portland

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