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RE: FYI ... Interesting info on ball joints

To: "'Todd Osborn'" <trosborn@california.com>,
Subject: RE: FYI ... Interesting info on ball joints
From: "Graeme Suckling" <graemes@saonline.com.au>
Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2005 18:05:43 +1030
 I think you will find the tapers are IDENTICAL to, for example, a later
model P510.
Instead of trying to repair the side rods on my SP310, I made up some new
ones from P510 rod ends and threaded rods.
They mate up perfectly with the taper in the steering hub and idler/steering
box.
This now gives a more conventional toe adjustment, i.e. threaded rod on each
side, and has more freely available/reasonably priced rod ends, i.e. P510.
I do a lot of mixing and matching of Nissan parts and the compatibility
factor right up there. 
As far as safety/performance is concerned, if the manufacturer has the cred,
theoretically it matters not where the parts are made. A lot of goods are
now coming from China, but so what? If they are made to the International
standard and are properly tested, so be it.
Mind you they probably are made for a pittance and we westerners pay the
"what the market will bear" price!!

Regards,
Graeme Suckling
1965 SP310
1971 P510
1972 PL510
1973 HS30
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290669159
Adelaide
South Australia.
"Seems to me an easier and safer solution to fabricating a replacement copy
of the OEM ball joint is to find an existing ball joint that matches the
steering knuckle taper and adapt it to mount in the roadster A-arms. One
would need to find an existing screw mount ball joint and then make a
V-bracket with a threaded center hole to mount the substitute ball joint.
The V-brckets would have to be different for the upper and lower ball
joints, might want to just create a lower ball joint replacement first since
these seem to wear the most. BTW I am very leary of the ball-air sysem"


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