Try it WITHOUT that stout slave cyl return spring.
~Steve
-----Original Message-----
>From: Bill Tobin <william.tobin31@verizon.net>
>Sent: May 9, 2013 5:47 PM
>To: Mike Moore <mmoore@wave1.net>, 'FOT' <fot@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>
>Mike, I'm not sure about the TR4, but on my TR6 the slave has to be on the
>back side of the mounting plate, which is mounted on the front of the
>bellhousing.
>If it's on the wrong side, you won't get enough travel to disengage the
>clutch.
>Like I said, not sure about a 4.
>Now if I could just get my brakes bled...........
>Good luck, Bill
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Moore" <mmoore@wave1.net>
>To: "'FOT'" <fot@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, May 09, 2013 8:01 PM
>Subject: [Fot] TR4 clutch, help
>
>
>> This is for my race car that I am getting ready for Jefferson 500.
>>
>>
>>
>> I had to put in new clutch master (Wilwood 5/8, same as was in car), and
>> new
>> slave (stock from Roadster factory.
>>
>>
>>
>> With car running when I try to engage gear I have to push clutch all the
>> way
>> to floor, works in last half inch, but then the clutch pedal sticks and
>> won't come back up.
>>
>>
>>
>> I have bled a lot and don't see any more air bubbles.
>>
>>
>>
>> Do I need to adjust rods on either cylinder or is it air.
>>
>>
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>>
>> Michael T. Moore, CPA
>>
>> 2007 West 32nd Street
>>
>> Erie, PA 16508
>>
>>
>>
>> Phone: 814-868-4831 ext 103
>>
>> Fax: 814-864-7383
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>>
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>>
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