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On 9/10/2018 3:41 PM, Bob Kramer via Fot wrote:
> I can't answer that but one could measure the dimension of the pinion
> head and subtract it from the total shown to get the depth you would
> want.
>
> Bob Kramer
I suspect that there are variations in parts due to manufacturing
errors, tolerances stacking up, etc. Most of the parts made at the time
were not subject to the sort of scrutiny and computer-controlled
measurements that are common today (although even that isn't a guarantee
of uniformity--I had to redo a bunch of Toyota Supra IRS diffs in the
early `80s because the computer that assembled them was misprogrammed
and it swapped the shim stacks for the carrier bearings left to right).
That said, the safest way to get the diff repaired properly is attention
to the shims when disassembling, and then putting the shims back in the
same thicknesses and checking for the proper engagement pattern. It
does require some educated guesswork, and, often, disassembling and
assembling a couple of times, but, if the pattern is right, the diff
will be reliable. I'd also recommend using hard shims in place of crush
spacers on the pinion whenever possible if the pinion originally used
those. It also is a bit easier if one uses the case spreader
judiciously on those housings requiring same, and doesn't crank it up
too much. Spread the case just enough to get the carrier and bearings
out. Figuring out the shim packs will be easier.
Cheers.
--
Michael Porter
Roswell, NM
Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....
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<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/10/2018 3:41 PM, Bob Kramer via
Fot wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CABFvdWuxfNvUEYnKtROeE3wKZsX4bmmGxguGpM6pNjA-C1VCtQ@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
<div dir="ltr">I can't answer that but one could measure the
dimension of the pinion head and subtract it from the total
shown to get the depth you would want. </div>
<div class="gmail_extra"><br clear="all">
<div>
<div class="gmail_signature" data-smartmail="gmail_signature">
<div dir="ltr">Bob Kramer</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
<br>
I suspect that there are variations in parts due to manufacturing
errors, tolerances stacking up, etc. Most of the parts made at the
time were not subject to the sort of scrutiny and
computer-controlled measurements that are common today (although
even that isn't a guarantee of uniformity--I had to redo a bunch of
Toyota Supra IRS diffs in the early `80s because the computer that
assembled them was misprogrammed and it swapped the shim stacks for
the carrier bearings left to right).<br>
<br>
That said, the safest way to get the diff repaired properly is
attention to the shims when disassembling, and then putting the
shims back in the same thicknesses and checking for the proper
engagement pattern. It does require some educated guesswork, and,
often, disassembling and assembling a couple of times, but, if the
pattern is right, the diff will be reliable. I'd also recommend
using hard shims in place of crush spacers on the pinion whenever
possible if the pinion originally used those. It also is a bit
easier if one uses the case spreader judiciously on those housings
requiring same, and doesn't crank it up too much. Spread the case
just enough to get the carrier and bearings out. Figuring out the
shim packs will be easier.<br>
<br>
<br>
Cheers. <br>
<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">--
Michael Porter
Roswell, NM
Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking
distance....</pre>
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