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We can agree to disagree.
I promise I'll try to figure out how a mechanism designed to move
up-and-down with the suspension--offering minor resistance when they're
working, and none when they're not--support the weight of the car.
On 1/6/2021 12:04 PM, Bluehealey wrote:
> Okay Bob.
> As you wish. However, before I sign off, take the nut off the trunnion
> and see the result (jack stand under the spline hub - latest pic).
> Just trying to help.
>
> Alan - from my iPad
>
>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 19:25, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>> 
>> Itâ??s a side load on the shock.
>> <image0.jpeg>
>>
>>> On Jan 6, 2021, at 10:38 AM, Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>  Sorry Bob - youâ??re still not gettinâ?? it.
>>> The important bit is -
>>>>>
>>>>> the weight of the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone.
>>>>>
>>> That is why your jack under the pan lifts the car.
>>> Then -
>>>>>
>>>>> The wheel and stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car
>>>>> through the top trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the
>>>>> bottom wishbone and spring.
>>>>>
>>> If you wish to test this, remove a wheel and place a jack stand
>>> under the spline hub to support the car. Â Now unwind the the top nut
>>> of the kingpin a few turns and observe the increasing gap at the
>>> bottom the kingpin. Â If you undo the nut all the way you will drop
>>> the car on the deck.
>>>
>>> Alan - from my iPad
>>>
>>>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 17:05, Bob Spidell <bspidell@comcast.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>  re: "The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust
>>>> washers."
>>>>
>>>> Nope. Proof: I have placed my cars on jackstands under the rear
>>>> springs and front trunnions and R&R'd their shock absorbers several
>>>> times (Armstrong shocks are a PITA, but that's a different rant).
>>>> Risky? Maybe, but done right the risk is manageable. My BJ8 rode
>>>> through a Richter 5+ earthquake in this state in San Jose a few
>>>> years ago; obviously, a flat, rugged concrete surface is required
>>>> (note messing with massive springs under compression has risks as
>>>> well). My BN2 is now in this state while I wait for front shock
>>>> rebuilds (though I have the jackstands backed-up by a QuickJack
>>>> under the chassis).
>>>>
>>>> Though there is a very specific gap called-for for the top
>>>> trunnion, the only reason I can see is too small a gap might cause
>>>> some binding--leading to even more steering effort--and too large
>>>> could result in the shock and bushing/bearing taking a beating.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 1/6/2021 7:39 AM, bluehealey@gmail.com wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> Hi Fred.
>>>>>
>>>>> You are not the first person that I have encountered with this
>>>>> confusion. It is usually held by those that are very familiar with
>>>>> pre-war cars and beam axles. In those cars the steering/stub axle
>>>>> is captured between fixed top & bottom â??earsâ?? on the end of the
>>>>> beam. The weight of the car bears down through the top ear onto
>>>>> the swivel axle. All fairly obvious.
>>>>>
>>>>> In the case of our cars, with top and bottom wishbones, the weight
>>>>> of the car is carried on the spring and bottom wishbone. The wheel
>>>>> and stub axle is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through the top
>>>>> trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod to the bottom wishbone
>>>>> and spring.
>>>>>
>>>>> The whole front end is sat on those two Oilite bronze thrust
>>>>> washers. Any reduction in friction here pays dividends â??
>>>>> especially in a 6-cylinder car with even more weight over the wheels.
>>>>>
>>>>> Maybe others can come up with a clearer explanation.
>>>>>
>>>>> Cheers.
>>>>>
>>>>> AlanB
>>>>>
>>>>> <image001.png>
>>>>>
>>>>> *From:*Fred Wescoe <fredwescoe@gmail.com>
>>>>> *Sent:* 06 January 2021 15:14
>>>>> *To:* Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com>
>>>>> *Cc:* Team.net <lawrence.swift@gmail.com>; Ahealey help
>>>>> <healeys@autox.team.net>
>>>>> *Subject:* Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster Angle
>>>>>
>>>>> Listers,
>>>>>
>>>>> I have looked at these top trunnion bearing kits over the years
>>>>> and considered installing them. However, I simply cannot get my
>>>>> head wrapped around why replacing bearings at the top of the
>>>>> kingpin would reduce the weight of the car and improve steering.
>>>>> It seems to me that all the weight of the car is pressed against
>>>>> the bottom of the kingpin. To me, it seems replacing the top
>>>>> bearing would have no effect on the steering effort. Can someone
>>>>> explain in simple language why this kit would work?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks, mystified,
>>>>>
>>>>> Fred
>>>>>
>>>>> 66 BJ8
>>>>>
>>>>> On Wed, Jan 6, 2021 at 9:49 AM Bluehealey <bluehealey@gmail.com
>>>>>
>>>>> These are the ones.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx
>>>>>
>>>>> <https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx>
>>>>>
>>>>> Well worth doing.
>>>>>
>>>>> The other often overlooked source of heavy steering is the
>>>>> Steering Idler. It is rarely lubricated, has no real reservoir
>>>>> for oil, and a poor seal at the bottom. I suggest releasing
>>>>> the ball joints that connect to the drop arm to check it for
>>>>> stiffness. Complete removal of the idler isnâ??t a difficult job
>>>>> and is the best way to clean and lubricate.
>>>>>
>>>>> The caster is pretty good on these cars (the initial design
>>>>> was good). Camber could go from positive to negative to be
>>>>> more compatible with radial tyres. Also check and minimise
>>>>> toe-in. This has a radical impact on steering feel when wrong
>>>>> (in either direction).
>>>>>
>>>>> If after all that you still have problems, then go for the
>>>>> caster changes you have in mind and tell us about your
>>>>> findings. The Team may learn something.
>>>>>
>>>>> The only other aspect that seems to vary from car to car is
>>>>> bump steer. Some can be horrible on fast bumpies and others
>>>>> are on rails. Iâ??ve never seen a decent treatise on dealing
>>>>> with this on our Big Healeys.
>>>>> Have fun.
>>>>>
>>>>> Alan - from my iPad
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On 6 Jan 2021, at 13:35, Team.net
>>>>> <lawrence.swift@gmail.com
>>>>>
>>>>> When I rebuilt the front end on my BT7, I had the trust
>>>>> bearings at the top of the kingpin replaced with bearings
>>>>> - made a huge difference in the ease of steering.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Jan 5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob Spidell
>>>>> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> re: "The other two are factory fixed and too dangerous
>>>>> to play with or maintain...even if Kilmartin makes the
>>>>> parts"
>>>>>
>>>>> How so?
>>>>>
>>>>> On 1/4/2021 9:40 PM, gradea1@charter.net
>>>>>
>>>>> I'm with the philosophy "set the toe and let 'er
>>>>> blow" The 1/16-1/8" toe-in is most important for
>>>>> proper tire wear. The other two are factory fixed
>>>>> and too dangerous to play with or maintain...even
>>>>> if Kilmartin makes the parts. Hank
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>>
>>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>>>>
>>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>>
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>>> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>> <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>>>>
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/lawrence.swift@gmail.com
>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>>
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>>> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>>>>
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>>>>
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bluehealey@gmail.com
>>>>>
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>>>>>
>>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> <http://www.team.net/donate.html>
>>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>>>>
>>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>>> <http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys>
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive <http://autox.team.net/archive>
>>>>>
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>>>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys>
>>>>>
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe@gmail.com
>>>>> <http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/fredwescoe@gmail.com>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> <https://www.avast.com/sig-email?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient>
>>>>>
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>>>>>
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>>>>> Support Team.Nethttp://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>>> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>>>>>
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>>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
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>>>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
>>>>>
>>>>> Unsubscribe/Manage:http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/bspidell@comcast.net
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> _______________________________________________
>>>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>>>>
>>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys
>>>> http://autox.team.net/archive
>>>>
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>>>>
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We can agree to disagree.<br>
<br>
I promise I'll try to figure out how a mechanism designed to move
up-and-down with the suspension--offering minor resistance when
they're working, and none when they're not--support the weight of
the car.<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/6/2021 12:04 PM, Bluehealey wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:76005CA2-F09B-420E-9241-0FDFE1D601A2@gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
Okay Bob.
<div>As you wish. However, before I sign off, take the nut off the
trunnion and see the result (jack stand under the spline hub -
latest pic).</div>
<div>Just trying to help.<br>
<br>
<div dir="ltr">Alan - from my iPad</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<blockquote type="cite">On 6 Jan 2021, at 19:25, Bob Spidell
<a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";><bspidell@comcast.net></a> wrote:<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">Itâ??s a side load on the shock.
<div><image0.jpeg></div>
</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<blockquote type="cite">On Jan 6, 2021, at 10:38 AM,
Bluehealey <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:bluehealey@gmail.com";><bluehealey@gmail.com></a> wrote:<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html;
charset=UTF-8">
Sorry Bob - youâ??re still not gettinâ?? it.
<div>The important bit is -</div>
<div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:033d01d6e442$1e630a70$5b291f50$@gmail.com">
<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal">the weight of the car is
carried on the spring and bottom wishbone.</p>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
That is why your jack under the pan lifts the car.</div>
<div>Then -Â <br>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:033d01d6e442$1e630a70$5b291f50$@gmail.com">
<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal">The wheel and stub axle
is bearing upwards, LIFTING the car through
the top trunnion using the kingpin as a
pull-rod to the bottom wishbone and spring.</p>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</blockquote>
If you wish to test this, remove a wheel and place a
jack stand under the spline hub to support the car.
 Now unwind the the top nut of the kingpin a few turns
and observe the increasing gap at the bottom the
kingpin. Â If you undo the nut all the way you will
drop the car on the deck.</div>
<div><br>
<div dir="ltr">Alan - from my iPad</div>
<div dir="ltr"><br>
<blockquote type="cite">On 6 Jan 2021, at 17:05, Bob
Spidell <a class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";><bspidell@comcast.net></a> wrote:<br>
<br>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite">
<div dir="ltr">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type"
content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
re: "<span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">The
whole front end is sat on those two Oilite
bronze thrust washers."<br>
<br>
Nope. Proof: I have placed my cars on jackstands
under the rear springs and front trunnions and
R&R'd their shock absorbers several times
(Armstrong shocks are a PITA, but that's a
different rant). Risky? Maybe, but done right
the risk is manageable. My BJ8 rode through a
Richter 5+ earthquake in this state in San Jose
a few years ago; obviously, a flat, rugged
concrete surface is required (note messing with
massive springs under compression has risks as
well). My BN2 is now in this state while I wait
for front shock rebuilds (though I have the
jackstands backed-up by a QuickJack under the
chassis).<br>
<br>
Though there is a very specific gap called-for
for the top trunnion, the only reason I can see
is too small a gap might cause some
binding--leading to even more steering
effort--and too large could result in the shock
and bushing/bearing taking a beating.<br>
<br>
</span><br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/6/2021 7:39 AM,
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:bluehealey@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true">bluehealey@gmail.com</a>
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:033d01d6e442$1e630a70$5b291f50$@gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="Content-Type"
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<div class="WordSection1">
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Hi
Fred.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">You are
not the first person that I have
encountered with this confusion. It is
usually held by those that are very
familiar with pre-war cars and beam axles.
In those cars the steering/stub axle is
captured between fixed top & bottom
â??earsâ?? on the end of the beam. The weight
of the car bears down through the top ear
onto the swivel axle. All fairly
obvious.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">In the
case of our cars, with top and bottom
wishbones, the weight of the car is
carried on the spring and bottom wishbone.
The wheel and stub axle is bearing
upwards, LIFTING the car through the top
trunnion using the kingpin as a pull-rod
to the bottom wishbone and
spring.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">The
whole front end is sat on those two Oilite
bronze thrust washers. Any reduction in
friction here pays dividends â?? especially
in a 6-cylinder car with even more weight
over the wheels.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Maybe
others can come up with a clearer
explanation.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">Cheers.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">AlanB<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"></span></p>
<div><image001.png></div>
<span style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US">
<o:p></o:p></span>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="mso-fareast-language:EN-US"><o:p>Â </o:p></span></p>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid
#E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
lang="EN-US">From:</span></b><span
lang="EN-US"> Fred Wescoe <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:fredwescoe@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true"><fredwescoe@gmail.com></a>
<br>
<b>Sent:</b> 06 January 2021 15:14<br>
<b>To:</b> Bluehealey <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:bluehealey@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true"><bluehealey@gmail.com></a><br>
<b>Cc:</b> Team.net <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:lawrence.swift@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true"><lawrence.swift@gmail.com></a>;
Ahealey help <a
class="moz-txt-link-rfc2396E"
href="mailto:healeys@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true"><healeys@autox.team.net></a><br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [Healeys] BN2 Caster
Angle<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Listers,<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">I have looked at
these top trunnion bearing kits over the
years and considered installing them.Â
However, I simply cannot get my head
wrapped around why replacing bearings at
the top of the kingpin would reduce the
weight of the car and improve steering.Â
It seems to me that all the weight of
the car is pressed against the bottom of
the kingpin. To me, it seems replacing
the top bearing would have no effect on
the steering effort. Can someone
explain in simple language why this kit
would work?<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Thanks,
mystified,<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Fred<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">66 BJ8<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Wed, Jan 6, 2021
at 9:49 AM Bluehealey <<a
href="mailto:bluehealey@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true">bluehealey@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<blockquote
style="border:none;border-left:solid
#CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0cm 0cm 0cm
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0cm">
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">These are the
ones.<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><a
href="https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">https://www.ahspares.co.uk/austin-healey/big-healey/suspension-front/top-trunnion-bearing-kit-pair.aspx</a><o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Well worth
doing.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The other
often overlooked source of heavy
steering is the Steering Idler.
It is rarely lubricated, has no
real reservoir for oil, and a
poor seal at the bottom. I
suggest releasing the ball
joints that connect to the drop
arm to check it for stiffness.
Complete removal of the idler
isnâ??t a difficult job and is the
best way to clean and
lubricate.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The caster is
pretty good on these cars (the
initial design was good). Camber
could go from positive to
negative to be more compatible
with radial tyres. Also check
and minimise toe-in. This has a
radical impact on steering feel
when wrong (in either
direction).<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">If after all
that you still have problems,
then go for the caster changes
you have in mind and tell us
about your findings. The Team
may learn something.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">The only
other aspect that seems to vary
from car to car is bump steer.
Some can be horrible on fast
bumpies and others are on
rails. Iâ??ve never seen a decent
treatise on dealing with this on
our Big Healeys.<br>
Have fun.<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Alan - from
my iPad<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><br>
<br>
<o:p></o:p></p>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal"
style="margin-bottom:12.0pt">On
6 Jan 2021, at 13:35,
Team.net <<a
href="mailto:lawrence.swift@gmail.com";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">lawrence.swift@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">When I
rebuilt the front end on my
BT7, I had the trust
bearings at the top of the
kingpin replaced with
bearings - made a huge
difference in the ease of
steering.<br>
<br>
<br>
<o:p></o:p></p>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">On Jan
5, 2021, at 10:36 AM, Bob
Spidell <<a
href="mailto:bspidell@comcast.net";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">bspidell@comcast.net</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p
class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">re:
"The other two are factory
fixed and too dangerous to
play with or
maintain...even if
Kilmartin makes the
parts"<o:p></o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p
class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">How
so?<o:p></o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p
class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">On
1/4/2021 9:40 PM, <a
href="mailto:gradea1@charter.net";
target="_blank"
moz-do-not-send="true">gradea1@charter.net</a>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p class="MsoNormal">I'm
with the philosophy "set
the toe and let 'er
blow" The 1/16-1/8"
toe-in is most important
for proper tire wear.Â
The other two are
factory fixed and too
dangerous to play with
or maintain...even if
Kilmartin makes the
parts. Hank<o:p></o:p></p>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p
class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
</blockquote>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<p
class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
</blockquote>
<blockquote
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<p
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre"
wrap="">_______________________________________________
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