In a message dated 96-10-15 11:06:32 EDT, larry.g.unger@lmco.com writes:
<< Dick Burger can get you one from Brown & Gammons for ?23.00 (about $40)
... STN1031 Competion sump baffle. >>
Sounds like a good deal to me, I'll check. This however would kick me out of
Stock class with SCCA, and I'm not happy about all the mods required to
compete in Street Prepared class (not just yet). I would have to review the
rule book to see if it would even be allowed in that calss. So before I go
to baffles I need to prove that slosh in the pan is really a problem here.
<< If my memory serves me ... a detailed drawing of the baffle can be found
in the 'B' Competition Tuning Booklet, ..... >>
Sounds good. Where do we fing the booklet?
<< ..... The Competition Tuning Booklet also outlines modifications to the
oil pump to increase flow at high rpms but I can't recall if this was for the
early pump (3 main bearing) or the later pump (5 main bearing) ... will try
and check this eve. >>
The original pump seems to have plenty of flow, does 50 psi at idle cold, 45
psi at idle hot, and hits relief pressure of 62 psi at 2000-2500 rpm. Any
additional flow would just be dumped over the relief valve to generate more
heat in the oil. The only benefit would be to generate a little more
pressure at slower engine speeds, like 62 psi at idle. More flow through the
engine requires more pressure, and as I recall, the pressure increases as the
square of the flow, so a 20% increase in flow requires a 44% increase in
pressure. I believe that a high volume oil pump should only be used in a
modified racing engine where the oil clearance in the bearings has been
increased a bit to accomodate the extra flow.
<< B&G may also have the 1500 flat top pistons ... >>
Possible source number one. Thank you much. Any others out there?
<< FYI, the following is from "Tuning BMC Sports Cars" by Mike Garton -
published '70 ... YMMV.
>"In May, 1959, the normal production MGA was given increased capacity with
a 1588cc version of the 1489cc unit. Virtually it was bored out and little
else. It is possible to overbore the early model to 2.97 in. and fit the
1600 pistons 12H 178, at least gaining some addtional torque." >>
The 1600 block is a different casting to comfortably accomodate the larger
bore. Boring a 1500 out to be a 1600 sounds like turning an 1800 into a 2L
conversion. It sounds feasible, but would the cylinder walls be marginally
too thin? I know you get no guarantees that the 2-liter conversion will work
(although it generally does). Has anyone had experience with a 1500 bored
out to 1600?
<< ... seems logical to me that you would want to uprate your valve springs
to eliminate bounce within what you feel is your "working" rpm ... just
because it will do 9000 rpm without bounce doesn't mean that you have to go
there <g>. >>
I have no willpower! If the thing is capable of running 9000 rpm, it
definitely would be doing that sometime. I'm still trying to train myself to
get off it before 7000, not having much success.
Barney Gaylord -- 1958 MGA
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