OSCALETA99@aol.com wrote:
>
> Dammit I think I have the same thing - I just finished seven weeks of
> reuphoulstering the interior of my 72B - (and bloody fine it looks too!) -
> after i replaced the ($700) seats I was ready for a spin - and knowing the
> battery was flat from 7 weeks of open doors i jumped it - started and ran
> fine, went for a spin to charge it and the following day it was dead - red
> light out all the time..... - jumped again, drove 55 miles - dead
>
> Now the battery is only six months old and the alternator "seems" ok -
>
> so........? help us you mechanical types. I can fit any trim to anyones car
> but im a babe in arms when the whirrly bits wont work!!
>
> mike robson
> 69 roadster
> 72 roadster
> 73 BGT
Mike:
Not good news for your alternator. I'd take it off and have it
checked. You can do it yourself if you have a meter that can check for
continuity and resistance. Haynes has a generic electrical
trouble-shooting manual that shows how to do it. There are probably
others, but I bought that one for about $12 at AutoZone.If there is a
good shop locally that can rebuild it, I'd opt for that over a unit from
a parts store. You can buy
most any part(i.e. diode pack,voltage regulator, etc.) from Moss, VB, or
TRF if you're good with a soldering iron.
While seeking info on mine, I was told by several persons more
experienced than I that the diode pack in Lucas units were especially
sensitive. Charging a completely flat battery and disconnecting a cable
terminal while running could easily cause failure. Hope this is helpful.
|