Bill Schooler wrote:
>
> Geoff Love wrote:
> >
> > Nick Pitt wrote:
> > >
> > > Paul
> > > The easiest way to turn the engine over it is,
> > > 1) Remove (or at least loosen) the spark plugs.
> > > 2) Put the car in gear, lower gears make it easier.
> > > 3) Jack one rear wheel just clear of the ground.
> > > 4) Now you can turn the engine over by turning this wheel (turning it as
> > > if the car is going forward will show you the direction of rotation of the
> > > engine).
> > > The disadvantage of this method is that you might need a helper to
>tell
> > > you when the timing light goes on and off. The timing marks are a notch on
> > > the outside edge of the lower pulley on the front of the engine, and the
>set
> > > of teeth that stick out from the front engine plate just next to this
> > > pulley.
> > > Good luck.
> > >
> > > Nick (73 B Roadster)
> > >
> > > ps. If this doesn't work then kick it!
> > >
> > > ----------
> > > From: Paul M. Schwerdt
> > > To: mgs
> > > Subject: Help needed...
> > > Date: 17 January 1997 01:06
> > >
> > > I recently posted a note on here about rebuilding my distributor.
> > > Everyone was very helpful, and I thought my car was finally fixed. But it
> > > still doesn't run. I am pretty sure it is because the timing is really
> > > messed up. (I took the clamp off, when I removed the distributor) The
> > > reason why I think it is the timing is for the following reasons, the
> > > battery is new, and fully charged, I just replaced the coil, plugs, leads,
> > > cap, rotor, condenser, and points. The car will turn over when the
> > > ignition is turned, but it never fires. (I think this is the right
> > > description...)
> > >
> > > Is there anything that I am missing? Or is the timing so messed up that
> > > the car won't fire?
> > >
> > > Plus, I went to try timing it today, and I was at a loss when trying to
> > > find the timing marks. Plus, I don't know how to turn the crankshaft in
> > > order to align the missing marks.
> > >
> > > Please help, I am a beginner, so I might be missing something totally
> > > obvious.
> > >
> > > thanks...
> > >
> > > -= PAUL =-
> > Nick: May I, in all deference to your suggestions to Paul, add my 10p's
> > worth. I think it is highly inadvisable to merely loosen plugs when
> > attempting this kind of operation. In the event the ignition is on, the
> > engine could fire, with possibly disasterous consequences. Secondly, to
> > try to turn the rear road wheel while the car is in a low gear would
> > require a Herculean effort.
> >
> > A method which I have found to be a safe and one handed operation, is:-
> >
> > 1. Turn off the ignition, and remove the key. (An old aviator's trick
> > to avoid accidental ignition)
> > 2. REMOVE the plugs completely.
> > 3. Make sure the car is on level ground.
> > 4. Engage top gear, and release the handbrake.
> > 5. While observing the engine timing mark, pull the car slowly forward
> > until the marks are at the point you require.
> > 6. Make your adjustments to the timing.
> >
> > Geoff Love, The English Connection
>
> Perhaps this isn't the configuration on your cars, but I find it easiest
> to use a 1/2 in drive socket on the crank pulley along with a suitable
> ratchet handle to turn the engine over. Of course, on mine the timing
> marks are are on the bottom of the timing cover so this works out well.
> I find it easiest to remove/loosen the plugs and make is a habit to
> disconnect the coil secondary lead just to be on the safe side (hen
> static timing, I have the ignition on, you see!) I'm even able to do
> this (turn the engine with the ratchet and socket) from topside, but
> always end up with skinned knuckles from the radiator core. Do later
> MGBs not have a crank pulley nut that's accessible as I've described?
>
> Bill
> 69 BGT
Yes, that works well. I also particularly like one lister's suggestion
for removing the HT lead from the coil. It really won't fire then.
Geoff Love, The English Connection
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