Glen -
1. Carburetor - I could use a little more info to assist with your dx:
- You indicated that your car starts, but does it idle, and if so, does
it do so smoothly and at what RPM?
- What happens when you depress the accelerator, does it sputter, die,
rev then fall or do nothing?
- What components did you replace or renew when you rebuilt the Zenith?
Did you replace the float, needle and seat?
- Is your car still fitted with the original pollution equipment?
Also,keep in mind that if your carb was rebuilt correctly and your
accelerator linkage is in place and working, you might be looking at an
ignition-related problem rather than a carb problem.
2. Clutch/Hydraulics:
Generally, the gearbox on a late model B is pretty tough. I would suspect
that there is a probelm somewhere in your clutch linkage. Try the
following:
- Check your hydraulic master, slave and all connecting lines for leaks.
- Check your pushrod, clevis pins and the clutch pedal for ovaled holes.
I can assure you from personal experience that rebuilding your slave
cylinder and replacing the the clevis pins and pushrod can make a HUGE
difference in clutch performance. If the hole in the clutch pedal has
ovaled, you will need to replace the pedal, or have the original filled and
drilled to spec.
- Yes you can bleed the clutch hydraulics. The bleed screw is located on
the slave cylinder under the right side of the car, next to the
bellhousing. You'll need a short length of tubing to direct the flow of
the spent fulid and you'll need a buddy to pump the clutch until the fluid
is forced out. Once you've refilled the master cylinder reservoir, you'll
need to repeat the bleeding procedure, this time with the tube in a jar of
clean fluid. Have your partner depress the pedal until the fluid entering
the jar is free from air bubbles. Tighten the bleed screw on the
downstroke of the clutch pedal. Done.
3. Brakes:
- Check all lines for leaks and/or cracks.
- If no leaks are found, bleed the system.
- Still no luck, consider rebuilding or replacing your master cylinder.
The master cylinder will occasionally leak internally and this condition is
difficult to diagnose as there will be no apparent leaking of fluid.
Unfortunately, time is not kind to hydraulic systems. If your car sat
unloved and undriven since 1984 you are probably looking at replacing or
rebuilding all of the hydraulics. In any case, you'll probably not be
motoring by the end of the week, sorry, such is the nature of the beast.
At least you can look forward to some up-close-and-personal time with your
B this weekend.
Whew, hope this helps, best of luck,
Jed Piper
76B
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> From: HGlenBetts@aol.com
> To: mgs@autox.team.net; british-cars@autox.team.net
> Subject: 76 MG-B
> Date: Monday, September 15, 1997 12:23 PM
>
>
>
> IT'S ALIVE!!!
>
> IT'S ALIVE!!!
>
> After installing new electronic for distributor and changing fuel pump
> (again) the pumpkin started right up. Keep in mind that I pulled this out
of
> a barn with 1984 plates on it. All new electrical, I rebuilt
> distributor,carburator, fuel pump.
>
> It was a bitter sweet rebirth as it suffered some birth defects. Is there
a
> Doctor in the house??
>
> 1- No exceleration.. Single Zenith-Stromberg 175CD with water choke
missing
> and no manual choke in place. Yes the peddle is moving the butterfly but
I
> have no idea what else is going on inside this strange brittish
appliance.
>
> 2- No Clutch.. Clutch peddle pumps up and down but can not shift into
gear.
> Should there be preasure build up when pumping? Can the hydrolic line be
> bled? I can shift through the gears when the engine is not running.
>
> 3- After bleeding the brakes, it takes a few presses to get any pressure
in
> the peddle, this is with the engine running. After letting it set a few
> moments, the peddle is gone again. Any thoughts?
>
> With your help I'll take my first drive in a LBC later this week.
>
> Glen
>
> in sunny Milford, Michigan
>
> 76 MG-B (on the road before first snow.. if I get
brakes/clutch/exceleration)
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