Soak the nuts in PB Blaster instead of WD 40. You'll stand a
better chance of getting them off if they are rusted on. NAPA sells it for
about $4 dollars a can. Expensive but you get what yopu pay for.
..Art
On Sun, 12 Apr 1998, Dan Ray wrote:
> Thanks to all for the advice on getting the exhaust off. I'm going to go
> soak those nuts in WD40!
> BTW, I've pretty much decided to get a stock down pipe, (keeping the
> manifold) then adapt it to a PECO exhaust. This will give me the option of
> getting into a PECO or other 2" header down the road (maybe). I'm going to
> attempt to put this thing together myself with no welding, paying close
> attention to mounting with the stock brackets. I've noticed the welds as
> critical failure points (probably due to poor craftsmanship, though)
> Step in if you think I'm being stupid. I haven't ordered anything yet.
> My goal is to have the B back on the road by May 9th for a Louisville BC
> club convoy to the Scottish Days near Cincinatti.
> Thanks Again,
> Dan
> '73 B
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ROBERT G. HOWARD <mgbob@juno.com>
> To: danray@bluegrass.net <danray@bluegrass.net>
> Date: Sunday, April 12, 1998 8:01 AM
> Subject: Re: Tools for B manifold to downpipe flange
>
>
> >Hi Dan,
> > Lots of liquid wrench and long extensions has been the way that has
> >worked for me. I have had the car up on jackstands to do this, so could
> >get a straight shot at the buggers. Do, when you replace them, replace
> >with brass nuts. DPOs often use steel, which then becomes one with the
> >stud and makes a future mess. As to the liquid wrench, start using it on
> >the bolts at least a week before you attack with the wrench. Might even
> >buy that miracle stuff for $15 that Griot sells. On this task, it could
> >be worth it. A broken stud means that the manifold has to come off, and a
> >broken hand means that you're in a cast for a few weeks.
> >Bob
> >
> >On Sat, 11 Apr 1998 18:39:22 -0500 "Dan Ray" <danray@bluegrass.net>
> >writes:
> >>Oh Wise Ones:
> >>I spent some time today staring at the nuts/bolts to the lower flange
> >>between the manifold and pipe.
> >>I'm thinking I'll need a 10" extension and swivel to get those nuts
> >>off, and
> >>I have neither. I don't have the privelege of a Snap-On collection,
> >>folks,
> >>but these are two things I need anyway.
> >>So...am I correct? I learned the "right tool for the right job" way.
> >>Seems I
> >>need to get these tools anyway, so before I do, I figured I'd ask
> >>everyone
> >>what they've used to get at those suckers... rounded nuts (no jokes
> >>please!
> >>haha) would not make me happy!
> >>TIA
> >>Dan
> >>'73 B "deadlined" for safety -- CO...cough cough)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >_____________________________________________________________________
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>
>
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