Tyson,
I just did the same conversion, except I used HS4s.
It is fairly simple if your motor is in good shape, ie: no rusted up studs etc.
It took me about 8 hours to remove the old manifold and carb, remove the old
exhaust, install the new manifolds and side cover gaskets, and install the new
stainless exhaust.
I had to rebuild the SUs, I had Joe Curto ream and install new throttle shafts.
I also sandblasted the 71 exhaust manifold and painted it with high temp paint.
I bought a new heat shield, used used spacer blocks, installed K & N pancake
filters, and new throttle cable and choke cable.
There are some tricks I learned from doing this:
Before you pull the old carb off, make sure the new carbs are in as new
condition - don't argue with yourself that the carbs don't need to be reamed,
just do it and be done with it!
Before you install the new stuff and while you have everything off the side of
the motor, clean the engine bay on that side, pull the side covers off and at
the very least install new CORK gaskets.
This is an important point because Moss will sell you the rubber gaskets for
that year - DON'T DO IT, USE CORK - the rubber ones leak.
If you really want to do a top notch job, pull the head as a unit (don't touch
the rockers or valve lash settings), install new push rods and tappets, then
put the new side cover gaskets on.
When you have the old manifold off, you have to, have to, have to replace the
manifold studs!!
It is easy and worthwhile, besides the fact that it looks really nice.
You will need to pull the hot water spout off the back of the head and make a
blanking plate and gasket using the spout as your template - very easy.
When you install the exhaust manifold (which is first to go on) don't tighten
it down to much, just enough to hold it there.
Very Important : Install the first section of the exhaust to the exhaust
manifold before installing it, when you go to put it in, you will find that you
have to jack up the front end about a foot to get it to thread in, but this
makes the job so slick and easy!!!
After you get the manifolds torqued on, finish the exhaust system, you will be
tempted to start the car with just the head pipe on and you don't want to do
that!
If you get a rattling from the exhaust hitting the underside of the tub, go to
a muffler shop or MG mechanic when you are done and have them play a flame on
the pipe and bend it - I had mine done for the cost of breakfast!!
Don't listen to the naysayers: stainless is the only way to go!
Make sure that your carbs jets are centered before you install them, or you
won't have much fun!
Let me know how you do or need any advice,
Erik.
--
On Tue, 07 Sep 1999 20:09:47 Tyson Sherman wrote:
>I finally bit the bullet and got a set of used SU
>HIF4 carbs to replace my aging Zenith Stromberg.
>I recently drove an air conditioned 80 B with a
>Weber DGV. The DGV left me unconvined; the A/C
>worked really great. So I decided the SUs were
>for me. Actually, the Weber car (with A/C off)
>seemed slower than my higher compression,
>desmogged 175CD. So now my interior is out,
>getting insulated, and bits to restore my dealer
>installed A/C are on the way.
>
>I need to know the orientation: manifold, gaskets,
>heat shield, little 1"+ spacers, carbs... etc. I
>don't know what goes where. Also, what's the best
>way to have both air filters and a brake booster
>(it's a 76)?
>
>I look forward to having a more powerful B with
>A/C. Just gotta get past the initial setup. So
>if anyone can help me with the orientation of all
>the parts, it would be greatly appreciated.
>
>--
>Tyson Sherman
>mts3@ra.msstate.edu
>ICQ# 10494960
>http://www.tecinfo.com/~tsherman
>
>
>
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