VERY super cool answer Barney! The best! Enjoyed it. Thanks for your effort.
This answer is absolutely "the essence of MGing".
Ya gotta love em - or be a glutton for punishment!
PS - You covered just about everything, in the order that many of us have
approached it, but don't forget to resurface the flywheel. Very important.
The new clutch will probably soon be badly chattering if it is not done,
with all the oil that's probably been on it.
-Jerry Erbesfield
73 B Black Beauty roadster
jerbesfield@mindspring.com
website- http://jerbesfield.home.mindspring.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-mgs@autox.team.net [mailto:owner-mgs@autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of Barney Gaylord
Sent: Tuesday, June 04, 2002 1:32 AM
To: DenverD
Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: clutch 65B
At 04:49 AM 6/4/02 +0200, DenverD wrote:
>On Mon, 03 Jun 2002 16:37:37 -0500, Barney Gaylord wrote:
> >.... 1/2" motion at the slave without disengaging means the
> >hydraulics are fine and the clutch internals are shot.
>....
>seems i gotta pull the engine to fix the clutch..
>.... the engine runs pretty good--i've not done a compression check (but
>will)...so assuming i'm "just" gonna fix up the clutch AND all the stuff
>that really *ought* to be done, then the parts list to order is (it has
>overdrive, which seems faultless):
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Just after the clutch repair and the oil
leaks, RIGHT?
>clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearings and ??
Cluth disk, release bearing, and a new spigot bushing for the rear end of
the crankshaft. New pressure plate is optional (if that is not what
already failed), but recommended, and the 3-piece clutch kit is reasonably
priced. Clutch alignment tool is cheap and very helpful. Pivot bolt and
bushing for the release arm, slave push rod and clevis pin, rubber boot for
the release arm, and the gearbox front seal and front cover gasket (just
for good measure). Assuming you have the correct engine in your 65B, it
would be a GB engine, the first of the five main bearing engines with the
rear crankshaft seal and small flywneel, so also get a rear main seal and
the lockplate for the flywheel bolts.
>.... the entire bottom of the engine is black and wet-
Get a conversion gasket set (everything below the cylinder head) and a
valve cover gasket, the valve cover bolt grommets and a timing cover
seal. Don't remove the cylinder head unless you're sure it's very low on
compression. You may need to buy the oil filter mount to engine block
o-ring seal separately if it doesn't come in the lower engine gasket
set. Also get the manifold gasket and carburetor moungint gaskets (if you
didn't buy a complete head set), and the exhaust flange gaskets (assuming
you still have the original iron exhaust manifold). Also a goot time to
check the ari cleaners and fuel hoses around the carburetors.
>--i can see some comes from the oil pressure gage tap,
A new oil pressure gauge flex line is good insurance, especially if age and
history is unknown.
>but there MUST be more leaking places.
You only figure that out after it's all reassembled and back in the car
(and then you learn to live with it).
>(ok, i'll order an oil pan gasket...how about a "rear main seal" does she
>have/need one--how do i check??)
The five main bearing engines do have a rear seal, but do not have the
mechanical tach drive at back of the camshaft at the left rear corner of
the engine block.
While you have the timing cover off to replace the front seal, also install
a new timing chain tensioner, and maybe get a new locktab washer for the
crank pulley bolt. And while it's out, seriously consider new engine mounts
(cheap) and some acrylic enamel paint to spiffy it up nice when you're
done. A change of oil and new oil filter will be in order as well as a
fresh change of coolant. Also a good time to inspect and/or replace
radiator and heater hoses and hose clamps.
After that, the list of "all the stuff that really *ought* to be done"
might include cleaning and/or painting the engine bay while the engine is
out. Changing the clutch slave hose and/or repacking the slave cylinder is
optional, but lots easier when the engine is out. Cleaning and painting
the front suspension cross member is also easier with the engine out, as
well as cleaning and painting and/or changing the rubber boots on the
steering rack, taking the radiator to a radiator shop for cleaning and
inspection, and if you get into a really bad case of the might-as-wells you
could do a full restoration while you're at it. In other words, have fun
tinkering, but if you get too carried away with "all the stuff that really
*ought* to be done" you could easily blow the rest of the summer (or even a
couple more years) before it's back on the road. You were just going to
fix the clutch and some oil leaks, RIGHT?
Barney Gaylord
1958 MGA with an attitude
http://www.ntsource.com/~barneymg
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