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Re: Rear Hub removal on a tube axel...

To: "JAMES SCHULTE" <schultejim@prodigy.net>, "Jim Evans"
Subject: Re: Rear Hub removal on a tube axel...
From: "Andrew B. Lundgren" <lundgren@byu.net>
Date: Wed, 21 Aug 2002 21:45:42 -0600
This worked great.

The beveled ring spun loose immediately after a few taps.  Pulled that
out by turning it with a single screwdriver. It road the threads out.  

The hub was still on tight.  I figured I had nothing to loose as the
hub is bad anyway, so I "smartly" whacked it back and forth right on
the threads (remember it is already junk metal, don't do this with good
hubs!) about four or five times with my biggest hammer. (Average size
hammer found in every garage, not even a ball-peen...) 

I tugged at the hub again and it slipped right off with my bare hand.

Thanks everyone for the help!

Next questions follow to follow.

Now if I hadn't accidently loosened the bolts holding the front brake
callipers together rather than the ones holding it on everything would
have gone wonderfully tonight.

On Wed, 21 Aug 2002 20:32:30 -0500, Jim Evans wrote:

>Use a BFH to finish the job.  First remove the beveled ring with gentle taps 
>to a screwdriver in the
>slot...sometimes you can just insert the screwdriver into the slot & twist it 
>but probably not if it has
>been there since 1970.  Now take your BFH (a machinist's hammer or 2 lb sledge 
>will do) and give the flat
>part of the flange a few whacks.  This will release the binding caused from 
>torqueing that nut down to 150
>lb (check your book...I think it's 150 or 160...definetely not finger tight 
>like one I found in my shop one
>time). Remove the conical spacer by gently putting two screwdrivers into the 
>two slots...force them in just
>a little & you can walk it right out.  There is no need for a puller or heat 
>for this job unless you have a
>bad aim with a hammer.
>Jim Evans


--
Andrew Lundgren
lundgren@byu.net
http://www.Lundgren.us

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