If something leaks...it leaks. If you've been
relying on crud to contain a leak, you've been lucky.
I've had no problems with new leaks thus far.
Paul Tegler
ptegler@cablespeed.com
www.teglerizer.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Zach Dorsch" <herr_dorsch@yahoo.com>
To: "MG LIST" <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, July 30, 2004 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: Oil for Overdrive Transmission
> Something that I have heard about synthetic oil in an old motor is that it
will start leaking oil due to the synthetic cleaning so well and be so
"slippery". Has anyone else heard this or actually seen this happen?
>
> I ask because I have thought about switching to synthetic because my car
sits so long (usually several months or more). I assume that the synthetic
would not break down and help reduce wear on startup.
>
> Zach
>
>
> Bob Howard <mgbob@juno.com> wrote:
> Max,
> That's the way it seemed to me also. Yet here is my experience with
> a very-worn Tecumseh 7 hp engine on a Ariens power handle that drives
> snowblower in winter, lawn vacuum in spring and fall, and a reel or
> rotary mower all summer.
> Last winter, when it was in snowblower mode, I found that I was
> lifting it off the floor with the starter rope when attempting to start.
> Figuring that the thing is well worn, beat to death essentially (I was
> already researching replacement engines), using about 1/2 pint of
> recommended 30 or 20/50 in an hour of snow blowing or mowing, I drained
> and refilled with Mobil 1 5-30.
> As expected, it started easier. Quite unexpected, though, was the
> remarkable decrease in oil burning. I didn't add oil for the rest of the
> winter. And now that mowing season is here, I am adding 1/4 pint of oil
> after every six hours of mowing. How can this be? Surely it's not from
> stuck rings, unless rings can stick during regular use. This 20+ year-old
> engine runs three to four seasons of the year, so it is not unused for
> long periods.
> Whatever the cause, it's a great improvement in consumption.
> The one disadvantage found is that in this configuration the vapors
> from the crankcase vent are directed toward the rubber drive-wheel for
> the unit's propulsion system. With dino oil the thing would get cruddy
> and greasy but would propel OK. Now, with the Mobil 1, I have to clean
> off the collected oil mist as it's so slippery that the rubber drive
> wheel will not grip against its drive plate.
> Bob
>
>
> On Wed, 28 Jul 2004 10:24:10 -0700 Max Heim
> writes:
> > Hmmm, I wonder if you'll see much benefit at this point. I mean,
> > depending on how many miles you have accumulated on dino oil, it's
> arguable
> > that the wear and crud distribution has already occurred. Running
> synthetic
> > starting after a full rebuild seems reasonable (it certainly seemed to
> work
> > in your example), but I would suspect it's a waste of money on a
> > high-mileage engine. Though you could take the attitude that it can't
> hurt...
>
>
> > Max Heim
> > '66 MGB GHN3L76149
|