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Here is what I do =E2=80=93 remove the thermostat, then put a pvc pipe =
into the radiator outlet hose that extends beyond the car so that the =
water doesn=E2=80=99t get thrown around by the fan, put a running water =
hose in the inlet hose, and run the engine until the water runs clear. =
Open the heater as much as possible as well.
=20
Although I have never done it, I have thought about buying a couple =
gallons of rust remover and putting that in the engine and letting it =
sit for a day or two. Has anyone actually done that?
=20
From: Mgs <mgs-bounces@autox.team.net> On Behalf Of Richard Lindsay via =
Mgs
Sent: Thursday, May 9, 2019 11:54 AM
To: PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
Cc: wkilleffer@epbfi.com; mgs@autox.team.net List <mgs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB
=20
All probably true, certainly the thermostat. I wonder if opening the =
block drain while flushing would help clear debris? The maximum safe =
cooling needed during a flush, with a running engine, would be the head. =
=20
My interest in this topic, beyond the academic value, is that I am about =
to start a '75 Triumph TR6 that certainly has rust scale in the block =
(and head). The radiator has been reverse flushed and flows cleanly in =
both directions. I don't want to plug it up so I will do 'something'. =
Hummm...
=20
Rick
On Thu, May 9, 2019, 10:52 AM PaulHunt73 <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com =
Thermostat probably closed so that would need to be removed. Even then =
would the water take the shortest route? I.e. running the engine more =
effective?
----- Original Message -----=20
=20
I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris out by running the =
engine and flowing water through. However, any system that flushes tends =
to put the output debris in the radiator! How about disconnecting the =
TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and ducting the output =
from the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried this?
=20
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vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>Here is =
what I do =E2=80=93 remove the thermostat, then put a pvc pipe into the =
radiator outlet hose that extends beyond the car so that the water =
doesn=E2=80=99t get thrown around by the fan, put a running water hose =
in the inlet hose, and run the engine until the water runs clear.=C2=A0 =
Open the heater as much as possible as well.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Although I =
have never done it, I have thought about buying a couple gallons of rust =
remover and putting that in the engine and letting it sit for a day or =
two.=C2=A0 Has anyone actually done that?<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> =
Mgs <mgs-bounces@autox.team.net> <b>On Behalf Of </b>Richard =
Lindsay via Mgs<br><b>Sent:</b> Thursday, May 9, 2019 11:54 =
AM<br><b>To:</b> PaulHunt73 =
<paulhunt73@virginmedia.com><br><b>Cc:</b> wkilleffer@epbfi.com; =
mgs@autox.team.net List <mgs@autox.team.net><br><b>Subject:</b> =
Re: [Mgs] Coolant draining on an MGB<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>All probably true, certainly the thermostat. I wonder =
if opening the block drain while flushing would help clear debris? The =
maximum safe cooling needed during a flush, with a running engine, would =
be the head. <o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>My interest in this topic, beyond the academic value, =
is that I am about to start a '75 Triumph TR6 that certainly has rust =
scale in the block (and head). The radiator has been reverse flushed and =
flows cleanly in both directions. I don't want to plug it up so I will =
do 'something'. Hummm...<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Rick<o:p></o:p></p><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On Thu, May 9, 2019, 10:52 AM PaulHunt73 <<a =
href=3D"mailto:paulhunt73@virginmedia.com";>paulhunt73@virginmedia.com</a>=
> wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span style=3D'font-size:10.0pt'>Thermostat probably =
closed so that would need to be removed. Even then would the water =
take the shortest route? I.e. running the engine more =
effective?</span><o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid black 1.5pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
4.0pt;margin-left:3.75pt;margin-top:5.0pt;margin-right:0in;margin-bottom:=
5.0pt'><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif'>----- Original =
Message ----- <o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p> </o:p></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>I've often wrestled with this. I usually flush debris =
out by running the engine and flowing water through. However, any system =
that flushes tends to put the output debris in the radiator! How about =
disconnecting the TOP hose, feeding fresh water into the radiator, and =
ducting the output from the waterpump into a bucket? Anyone tried =
this?<o:p></o:p></p></div><div><blockquote =
style=3D'border:none;border-left:solid #CCCCCC 1.0pt;padding:0in 0in 0in =
6.0pt;margin-left:4.8pt;margin-right:0in'><p =
class=3DMsoNormal> <o:p></o:p></p></blockquote></div></blockquote></=
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