Before any drilling be sure to soak the bolts with a good penetrating fluid.
Not to restart the Kroil, WD40, bear snot, whatever discussions I love
Kroil. Do that for at least a couple of days, reapplying the fluid fairly
often. They may just walk out with the left handed drill.
Good luck,
Mark Miller
----- Original Message -----
>. . .
> One way that is relatively simple is to buy a left hand drill bit that
> is about half the size of the hole, center punch the old bolts, and
> drill away. It is important that you keep the bit centered, as you don't
> want to drill into the threads. In the case of oil pan bolts, the
> remains of the studs will probably walk right out long before you get to
> the bottom of the bolt. Even if they all don't come out, you can insert
> an "easy out" into the hole and remove the part. This all assumes that
> you have a reversible drill, of course...
. . .
>
> Mike Rambour wrote:
> > Excuse me for posting on the shop talk list about pre-war cars but it
is
> > related to shop work.
> >
> > I need a good way to remove 6 broken bolts/studs in a 34 Singer
> > motor. I removed the oil pan on my car and found that it was only held
in
> > by 2 wood screws and 4 bolts as the other 6 bolts were broken in the
> > block. I assume they were studs. 4 of them are broken almost flush
with
> > the block, one is going to easier since it is broken slightly inside the
> > hole and the other is sticking out about 1/4" but I am not able to move
it
> > with vice-grips.
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