Not sure, but I think the passengers side is the furthest.
The brake fluid on this car is pretty clean, I flush it every time I
change pads or work on it.
The rear brake hoses were replaced in the last year or two.
I bought front ones, but never put them on.
Looks like I will be grabbing the flaring tools and digging up fittings
and brake line in the morning so I can replace the brake hose.
And replacing the fronts while I am at it.
This car has been pretty decent, around 200k on it so far, some repairs
alternator, master cylinder, rear suspension, O2's, but nothing that
bothered me too bad for 10yrs 200k.
But brakes have been a hassle from day 1.
I always said that the master cylinder wasn't right, push down on the
peddle and the car would start to stop fine, but then you had to keep
apply more pedal pressure to keep it stopping.
Dealer mechanics said ' it stops fine'
And it did if you jammed the brakes, but used normally (and if you had a
brain and some give a darn) you could tell something was wrong.
That and the fact that it ate REAR brake pads, while the fronts looked fine.
Master cylinder finally gave up, put new on in and the car stopped the
way it should.
Also emergency brake cable (driver side) froze up years ago, causing
dragging that caused enough heat to kill the OEM caliper.
Add to that pulling the whole rear interior apart looking for a clunking
noise, just to finally figure out that the autozone supplied guide pins
are too small and allowed the caliper to clunk around.
And then getting correct guide pins, lubing them with wheel bearing
grease only to find out that the rubber seal on the guide pin was not
compatible with the grease.
Rubber bushing swelled up like crazy.
Not only did it eat the brake pads, but took me forever to get the guide
pin out of the housing.
Still like the car for what it is, but if I never have to touch the
brakes again I would be a happy man.
Thanks for the advice and letting me vent.
Matt
On 1/5/2016 8:17 PM, Ian McFetridge wrote:
> Is the left-rear caliper the furthest from the master cylinder? On my
> 4Runner (2004) this was the first one that would exhibit sticking (I
> measured the stickiness by driving around the block and measure the
> temperature on each rotor with an IR temp gun). All the pins, slides,
> and eventually the pistons would corrode and drag. I could take the
> calipers apart, sand, wire-wheel, and lubricate to get them to work
> again (and lower the relative temperature measured). OR, I found I
> could bleed the system (carefully/well) and get the far caliper to
> stop sticking for a while--I think you were going this direction with
> your logic of a blocked line. Perhaps, air in the lines doesn't allow
> enough vacuum to retract the piston? Or the bleeding washes out
> "gunk" (tech term!).
>
> Ymmv,
> Ian
--
Matt Wehland
(815) 295-4533
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