Greg wrote
>One thing I'll try is to fabricate a U shaped piece of metal to place on
>top of the plastic encased wire between the plastic and the nut - right?
>I'll try that first.
>Also, can anyone comment on the likely effectiveness of the following TEST
>procedure:
>1. Make sure the Tach has got a good earth
If it is mounted in the dash the mounting bracket should take care of the
ground.
>2. Check the Green wire to the spade connector is a power wire
The green wire should be hot if the ignition switch is on.
>3. Run a piece of wire from the SW side of the coil (the non-distributor
>side) to the small threaded post on the back of the tach, form that wire
>into a loop around the post and either hold it there or hold it in place
>with a washer and nut. Run the other end of the wire to the connector on
>the key.
If the plastic incased wire that you have is a loop then this should be what
goes over the small threaded post and no other wire is required. This wire
should be white and should be continuous from the ignition switch, through the
loop and to the coil SW terminal. Unless modified this line should not have
any connectors or terminal blocks from the ignition switch to the coil. If
the plastic encased wire does not fit this description then what you described
in item 3 is the same thing with out the plastic. If you have to do item 3
then I think that the loop needs to be held in plastic. The loop is a
current loop and its size, location and direction is important. Testing my
memory I think the loop is about 1 inch in diameter and sets about 1/8 of an
inch away from the back of the instrument.
Other wise sounds right to me for what that's worth.
Good Luck
Bob and Ann
60 Sprite
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