Hi Frank and all,
I have learned that it is even easier on Sprites as well as my Seven to put
both springs (top and bottom) on the shoes and stretch them apart with your
hands as you put them in place. That way you don't even have to fiddle with
putting the bottom spring on.
Mike C
----- Original Message -----
From "Frank Clarici" <spritenut at Exit109.com>
To: "Michel R. Gagne" <mgagne@unc.edu>
Cc: "spridget list" <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2003 10:38 PM
Subject: Re: A day in the garage
> Michel R. Gagne wrote:
>
> > My plan is to redo the rear brakes of my 74 midget.
>
> A few hints..........
> Air works great to blow out the old brake dust, but YES it most likely
> contains asbestos. You can use a cheap dust mask or spray it with a
> water bottle to wet it before you blow/sweep it up.
>
> Brake clean is a spray degreaser type of stuff, 2 kinds available.
> One is environmentally friendly, it doesn't work (green can)
> The other is alcohol base, it works great (red can)
>
> If possible, save the original snap rings (JC clips) on the old wheel
> cylinders, they seem to go back on with no troubles. The new ones come
> with thicker "E" clips which are a real bear to get on, not impossible
> but I have gone to the hardware store and bought new JC clips rather
> than struggle with the "new and improved" clips.
>
> Lube up and run the adjuster nut all the way in and back out, keep it
> lubed up.
>
> It is a lot easier to install the upper brake spring on both shoes and
> stretch the shoes over the wheel cyl, and E brake lever, and pop them in
> place.
> Then do the bottom spring, it really doesn't make that much of a
> difference if you put the lower spring on behind the shoes (tough job)
> or on the front of the shoes, (much easier) The lower spring will not
> interfere with anything if it is on the outside.
> The upper spring MUST be on correctly, there is a square notch or upward
> bend in the spring. MAKE SURE IT GOES UP to clear the hub. And it MUST
> be behind the shoes.
> If this is your first brake job, look close at the position of the
> shoes, their holes and notches, lay the new ones out on the floor before
> you remove the old shoes from the car. Notice which holes/slots the
> springs go in. Do one side, leave the other untouched so you can refer
> to it just incase.
>
> Loosen the brake adjuster before removing the brake drum.
> There are 2 screws holding the drum on. Make sure the E brake is off.
> Squirt it all with brake clean or water first to wash out all the dust.
> The brake adjuster is behind the back plate, it is a 5/16" square nut.
> If you do not have a brake adjuster wrench, an open end 5/16 wrench will
> work if it isn't seized up ;) You may have to lever off the brake drum
> with an old large screwdriver. Needle nose pliers works on the JC clip,
> prayers and a lot of booze work when using the new E clip on the w/cyls.
> Regular pliers work well in pulling the brake springs into place.
>
> The first wheel will probably take you an hour, the 2nd wheel, about a
> 1/2 hour. The next brake job, 20 minutes total ;)
>
> --
> Frank Clarici
> Toms River, NJ
> 5 British cars on the road
> http://www.exit109.com/~spritenut
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