David,
I posted this a few months ago when someone else asked for engine
opinions. I have just over 9,500 miles on this rebuild, a 1000 of which
were this last weekend in 95+ temps going to the Louisville Brit bash. I
highly recommend going to the aluminum heads, they work well and its
cheaper than rebuilding a set of old ones.
--------
I bought a 5-bolt 289 short block from a fellow Tiger member, then
bought the Edelbrock alum Performer Plus heads, Comp Cams 262H cam, KB
.030-over 9.5:1 hypereutectic pistons, rods and all the internals. I had
it built by Stockman Engines through Doug Jennings. Total cost was
around $4500. With stock cast headers, F4B intake manifold, 500 CFM
Edelbrock carb, dual-point distributor (with Pertronix), and 1.75"
exhaust it still makes over 240 at the rear wheel at a reasonable 5200
rpm. I wanted a long-lasting, torquey engine that was manageable and was
period correct. So far, with a little over 8K miles on the engine, my
expectations have been met.
I up-graded the brakes and suspension accordingly, the car is balanced
and just a blast to drive. I also own a very original Tiger with an
untouched stock power train. I put it on the dyno just for giggles, it
made a whopping 132 HP at 4200 rpm. Much room for improvement here,
although the car is a very pleasant highway cruiser.
Bugz
-----Original Message-----
From: tigers-bounces+mark.rense=ge.com@autox.team.net
[mailto:tigers-bounces+mark.rense=ge.com@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
dhhall@bellsouth.net
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 7:17 AM
To: tigers@autox.team.net
Subject: [Tigers] engine ancillaries
My engine is at the shop, and I'd like some advice about ancillaries.
My goal is a largely stock, or period available, with adequate power for
touring, and good driveability. I have a Mk 1A, whose original 260 had
too many freeze cracks to salvage. I was able to buy an original Tiger
289, and it has needed to be bored .030 over. I am retaining the
original cast iron heads, new mild cam for a bit more torque, new taller
valve springs, hardened valve seats. I'm inclined to use the Edelbrock
carb, but wondered 500 or 600 cfm? I presume a manual choke. Thin
carb spacer? Using the Mk 11 timing cover, must I use the cast iron
water pump, or can I use the aluminum. I don't think I want a high
volume one. For the flywheel, a lightened steel one, or aluminum? And
probably a Centerforce clutch, per the recent discussions. Thanks for
all the help, this list is great. David
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