Dave,
I did it out of necessity. The PO had allowed water to get into the
housing and all the bearings were shot. Shot to the point that one had spun
and wore about .035 off a press fit on the carrier. I bought a used
replacement carrier and gears from Dale A. I made my own case spreader and
configured a pinion depth gage. I followed the manual regarding the shims
and in the end felt I got everything very close (within half a thousand on
the back lash and .0015 on the ring gear runout).
Frankly, I found it very hard to get a reading on the mesh. The
recommended product to read the gears is, dare I say (of late), "lead"
paste. Some might cringe, but in the end I used fine valve lapping paste to
leave a dull pattern. I later cleaned this up with a few swipes of 600 grit
paper. From what I could tell I was extremely close to the original mark.
Your rear end guy obviously would be better equipped, but to me the
hardest part was setting the pinion depth. I put the race in the freeze,
and heated the case with a propane torch. It dropped right in. I think it
took me less than 10 seconds to get the reading, but I had to hammer rather
hard on a closet pole sized wooden dowel to get the race back out.
I would love to tell you the outcome, but after 8 years my Tiger is still
on jackstands. I'm not sure what you paid for the gears, but perhaps the
difference between them and new gears might be worth the cost for your piece
of mind going with new. Me, I'm just cheap and if my gears whine I'll
probably protect the bearings, apply the fine valve paste and see what
happens. When I was a kid I was enamored with the movie the "Flight of the
Phoenix.." I guess that is where I get my 'I'll make it work even if by
unconventional means' perspective.
Tom
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