Sure, that works fine, I recently replaced the wires on my 58 with stock
wire from a local autoparts store. Just make sure they are wire, not
carbon composite and that the screws on the distribtor puncture the
insulation.
Chuck
1958 TR3A
david r simpson wrote:
> >Hello all,
> >
> >Just a quick question today. Considering the poor quality of the
> wires
> >I ordered from Vicky Brit, I have decided to send them back and have
> them
> >credit my card. My question is: Can I go to an automotive store,
> order
> >standard, good quality, longer wires, cut them to size and insert
> then
> >into the distributer cap?
> >My cap has little set screws that screw in from the underside and
> pierce
> >the wire in order to provide contact.
> >
> >Ideally, this is the way to go. I justy don't know if common brand
> wires
> >would be compatible. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> >Cheers,
> >
> >Alan Camhi
> >65 TR4
> >
> I would like to add a few questions of my own. I once remember
> something about changing the gap on spark plus to ?? when changing
> a car over to electronic ignition/high energy (40K volt coils) from
> standard points & standard voltage coils. Does the change in voltage
> affect the gap & spark length, any comments? Also what is the deal
> with resitor plugs and the high resistance in the spark plug wires.
> I guess you need a certain amount of resistance to limit the amp or
> you will burn up the plugs. You want high voltage drop with a limited
> flow of amps right?? Do you need to match the resistane of the plugs
>
> & wires. I am running a Crane X700 electronic ignition, with their
> 40K volt coil, 10 ohm wires and Champion l-87Y plugs in a TR3. The
> spark just does not impress me as a high energy spark?? BTW I have
> not
> checked out sparks on others cars yet. Was going to do that before
> writing this letter but what the heck, the question was opened.
>
> Dave Simpson
> NE Ohio
> 61 TR3B
> 76 spitfire
> Both are running!!!
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