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Re: GM alternator

To: DANMAS@aol.com
Subject: Re: GM alternator
From: "John L. Walker" <up497@freenet.victoria.bc.ca>
Date: Thu, 31 Jul 1997 20:38:41 -0700 (PDT)
Cc: triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
On Thu, 31 Jul 1997 DANMAS@aol.com wrote:

> There are too many variable to say for sure, but in general, with no heavy
> load, the light should be out at idle. A lot depends on the relative sizes of
> the pulleys involved. If the alternator pulley is too large, it may not be
> spinning fast enough at idle. OTOH, it's not unusual to need to rev them up
> to get the light to go out the first time.

That's good.  We have 2 Chevettes in the family, both of them need a bit 
of a 'kick' to get them to charge.  I installed a voltmeter in mine - 10V 
or so before rev, 14 after.

> >  When the lamp glows there is only about 5 volts between the lamp lead and 
> >  ground.  I have a feeling that I'm losing voltage somewhere in the 
> 
> Wher are you measuring this voltage? From which side of the lamp - the
> ignition switch side, or the alternator side? You should get 12 - 14 volts on
> the key side, but the alternator side will vary depending on the rpm. At a
> high rpm, the voltage should be 12 -14 volts on the alternator side.
> Remember, the higher the voltage on the alternator side, the less the lamp
> glows.

This would be the alternator side.  I know I didn't measure it right.  I 
should be looking for the voltage across the light bulb but I patched my 
probe in the wire between the bulb and the alternator (where the control 
box should be.

I've still yet to try cleaning the contacts in the light socket.  More 
resistance=more voltage drop...also=more voltage difference between alt. 
and ign. key

> Some one on this list suggested that you take the alternator to a shop and
> have it tested (I'm sorry, but I deleted the post, and can't remember his
> name). I think that is an excellent idea. Testing the alternator at the store
> is completely independent of how you had it hooked up. Once you know what
> condition the alternator is in, it will be a lot easier to troubleshoot the
> rest of the car.

I'll be trying this out later... I live in a rural place and it's 30k to 
the nearest commercial garage (w/ testing equipment)

Right now I'm flat broke and my insurance runs out August 2 :( :(

I have a set of rear springs for my TR4 that I'd be willing to sell, any 
offers?

-Malcolm

    Too many rocks and not enough sand. 


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