Andrew makes a good point. Phosphoric acid is the main ingredient in Metal
Prep, which I get from a local auto paint store. It actually etches the
metal slightly. I use a green scrubber I stole from the kitchen to apply
it, working in small (2-3 sq. ft) areas at a time. I work the metal until I
get a clean slightly blue-ish tint then wipe down with some acrylic cleaner
to remove the residue, oil, dirt, etc. prior to painting. It's hot here
(San Antonio) so the cleaner evaporates quickly, otherwise I use a hair
dryer to prevent it (the acrylic cleaner) from leaving a film on the clean
metal.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Andrew Bernard Clippingdale
> [SMTP:a.clippingdale@pgrad.unimelb.edu.au]
> Sent: Tuesday, July 14, 1998 8:01 PM
> To: JAMES_S_WALLACE@HP-Canada-om1.om.hp.com
> Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Bare metal pre-treatment (longish)
>
>
> James
>
> I find that dilute phosphoric acid does a great job on protecting bare
> metal until you are ready to paint it. It could be just the trick if you
> are not sure how long it is going to be before you get around to painting.
> The phosphoric acid reacts with the rust and forms a protective layer
> over the metal which stops the water getting in. Over time, the protection
> does reduce, but occasional re-application (I use a cheap paintbrush)
> should do the trick. The finish is a bit sticky, and white in colour,
> but nothing seems to get through it. When you are ready to paint, just
> lightly wet sand the panel and then paint it ASAP!
>
> I completely stripped and re-painted my 2500 PI a couple of years back,
> and coated the whole body with phosphoric until we got ready to
> paint. It came up fine!
>
> Hope this helps
>
> Andrew Clippingdale
>
> '71 Triumph 2500 PI
> '27 Willys Knight 70a sedan
>
> On Tue, 14 Jul 1998 JAMES_S_WALLACE@HP-Canada-om1.om.hp.com wrote:
>
> >
> > A couple of questions, now that I've reached the point where new
> > metal's being attached to the TR3:
> >
> > 1. I got a 4x8 sheet of 20 gauge plain steel from which I'm
> creating
> > new floors and lots of miscellaneous other pieces. It was oily when
> I
> > got it, but now that it's been handled and welded the oil's gone
> and
> > the rust is already starting.
> >
> > It will be a while before this car sees paint (like a year, he
> thinks,
> > highly optimistically...); what should I coat this new bare metal
> with
> > in the interim? I've seen lots of cars waiting for paint with
> primer
> > on them, and with the rust showing through the primer, so I wonder
> if
> > that's really the way to go. I have seen "cold galvanizing" spray,
> but
> > I don't know if that would need some special primer before paint,
> like
> > galvanized metal would.
> >
> > 2. I also have new rockers, once they're in place the insides of
> them
> > won't get painted, so should I "cold galvanize" inside them, or
> what?
> > I've used "Rust Destroyer" (something like POR-15) on the inner
> sills,
> > but on the inside of the rockers there's very little rust to
> destroy,
> > so far.
> >
> > (Rocker panel aside: these came from VB and were for pre-60000
> cars,
> > but it took very little to get them to fit my post-60000 model;
> they
> > were just a bit long. I would recommend them to anyone who's not
> > sure.)
> >
> > I would appreciate knowing what people have done. I don't want to
> > order specialty stuff from Eastwood, for example; I'd rather use
> stuff
> > that's more readily available so generic responses are welcome.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Jim Wallace
> > TS81417
> >
> >
>
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