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Re: TR3 Temp gauge

To: EPaul21988@aol.com
Subject: Re: TR3 Temp gauge
From: Michael Ferguson <fergie@ntplx.net>
Date: Sun, 04 Oct 1998 12:20:02 -0700
Cc: gprtech@frontiernet.net, triumphs@Autox.Team.Net
Organization: Could be better...
References: <c6c51848.36179079@aol.com>
EPaul21988@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 98-10-03 09:30:45 EDT, gprtech@frontiernet.net writes:
> 
> >The tube must be filled with ether, so although it might be possible to
> >do it, I can't imagine how you would.
> >
> >Michael Ferguson wrote:
> >>
> >> Is it possible to reconnect a TR3 temp gauge to the sending unit? I have
> >> all the pieces, but PO apparently cut the cord at the sending unit end.
> >> Thanks.
> >>
> 
> While I can't imagine how it's done either (ether) it is done, and I've
> actually watched it being done.  MOMA of Albuquerque NM has the lad that does
> most of these repairs in the US. (It's the son of owner Margaret Lucas, so you
> also get to say that the gauge was repaired by a member of the Lucas family,
> yeah, yeah I know it's not a Lucas instrument)  I had one done there for the
> 59 TR3A and more recently had a TR3 unit repaired to install in the F2 Morgan
> 3 Wheeler. Moma's restoration includes a replated  gauge housing, new face and
> repainted needle and a good cleaning. Both look like new and work a treat.
> 
> The 'cord'  is actually a tube from the bulb which is installed in the water
> jacket at the TStat housing to the gauge in the dash. ( I know they have new
> tubing and I think bulb ends too)  As the ether in the bulb warms up, it
> expands, creating a mechanical force at the gauge which moves the needle. The
> more heat, the more expansion, the more the needle moves. These mechanical
> gauges were replaced with electrical resistance types as found in the TR4's
> (those modern TR's) where the heating at the bulb end causes a change in
> electrical resistance which concurrent current changes cause the needle at the
> gauge to move about with temperature fluctuations.
> 
> A real good fix to the problem of corrosion at the bulb installation is to
> insert a brass fitting which resided permanently in the pot metal housing,
> giving a brass to brass thread to install and remove the bulb end.  MOMA has
> the fitting too.
> 
> No I don't have an interest in MOMA, financial that is.
> 
> Bob Paul

Yeah, but if someone in the Lucas family fixes it, will it work? Just
kidding (I think). By the way, got a note yesterday that mentioned the
same company. Price was $85. Thanks for the info - most informative.

Michael Ferguson

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