Tony, OK. See below.
In a message dated 98-10-06 20:33:14 EDT, you write:
> I read your article. I tried the varnish stripper. The finish was immune
> to everything that I tried. I finally used a heat gun. In an area where
the finish was in the worst shape, the veneer peeled up with the finish.
Too bad, maybe someone had refinished it at an earlier date with some other
finish. Mine was the factory finish and came right off with the Sears
remover.
>
> Now I have the luxury of reveneering the dash. Maybe I will use a
> walnut burl veneer. Very pretty, but non-standard.
Up to you. There was a thread about a year ago on veneers. I'll see if I
kept it. If so, I'll copy you.
> What brown paint did you use for the edges of the plywood? It
> looks like it was separate from the plastic finish. I did not see
> the finish covering the painted area.
Iused a can of Rustoleum exterior "chocolate brown." Looks just like the
original. Sprayed it into a margarine dish and painte it with the foam brush.
BTW - the foam brushes work best (that's in the article).
> I think I will veneer, paint, stain and
> urethane.
Just a thought. If you get the right veneer, you shouldn't have to stain it.
> Maybe I can get the original depth of the finish by using one
> of those 2 part epoxy finishes.
I used 5 coats of DAP (one part) high gloss urethane. Looks great.
>
> Maybe when I am all done I will write an addendum to your article
> covering the re-veneering process.
That would be super. Maybe we can get Ken to put a notice on both articles
saying "if the veneer is undamaged - follow Kelly's advice, if the veneer is
damaged and must be replaced - follow Rhodes' advice."
Cheers.
Art Kelly
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