Hugh,
Your method for breaking in a new motor only addresses one part of the
concern, it is intended to prevent over-revving. I agree with that, to a
point. I think the "shift points" you cite are pretty low for a rebuilt
TR engine. It can safely go up to at least 3000-3500 rpm, I'm sure. Your
shift points might be appropriate for a Harley or a V8.
What is over-looked in your procedure is that a new engine is probably
more likely to be damaged by "lugging" it in too high a gear for the
speed/load at any given time, which is a very real possibility shifting
as low in the rpms ad you are.
IMHO the best procedure is to run the motor smoothly, gently and
moderately for the first 1000 miles or so. No lugging and no redlining.
In fact, I've heard opinions that lugging an engine is probably the most
harmful thing you can do to it throughout it's entire life-span.
Alan Myers
San Jose, Calif.
'62 TR4 CT17602L (getting a rebuild soon!)
Hugh R McAleer wrote:
>
> I know what the book says about run in procedures, but curious as to what
> others may have done in the real world.
>
> I rebuilt my first TR ( '65 TR4) in 1971 and my neighbor ( an engineer
> motor head type who taught me a lot ) said the way to break it in was the
> way he did his Griffith, namely, by counting shifts. If I recall
> correctly, it went something like go up to 1500 for the first 100 shifts,
> then up to 2000 for the next 100 shifts, and so on. I remember how proud
> I was that I kept up with the number of shifts and believe it or not, I
> stuck with the routine. That car ran great until I sold it.
>
> I did it with the 250 rebuild back in the early 80's. The bottom end
> stayed together but the valves sank into the head.
>
> Any others care to share their stories?
>
> Hugh R. McAleer
> Jonesboro, GA
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MZ
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