Jack Brooks wrote:
> Randall,
>
> Thanks. I am leaning towards the 0.70, which I will duly note in my car's
> log book along with all the other changes I have made (like the lifter
> clearances at 0.16 and 0.18 for my fast street cam), Luk Diaphragm clutch,
> etc. I may even stamp 0.70 on the outside of the master cylinder, so I
> don't curse myself out one day. <HG> Yeah, I'd be pissed if I bought a
> rebuild kit, clutch or master cylinder, and it was the correct one, but it
> didn't fit. That's why I keep a detailed logbook. Without it I would be a
> DPO, Damned PRESENT owner!
>
> My brakes are fine. Just as my seats now rise about and inch and a half as
> they slide forward, I am looking to decrease the pedal pressure for my
> petite wife, who also autocrosses the car. She is Ok with the brakes as
> they are, but less pedal pressure required would be better. I don't know
> about your car, but I get full pedal pressure very high up on the pedal
> stroke. I could easily accommodate another 3 inches of pedal motion. That
> said, I believe 0.70 is the limit, based on a 0.75 "correct" bore.
>
> For the purists out there, I have made many modifications to my TR3, but
> very, very few that couldn't be changed back with just a spanner and/or
> replacement part.
>
> Later,
>
> Jack
Jack,
Although they aren't the easiest to find, the MGC uses a dual circuit remote
reservoir
master cylinder with a stepped bore in the size range you want. It has the same
flange pattern as your TR-3 MC, and I think the length is very similar, enough
that it
would fit in the pedal box. You'd need to cobble up some kind of reservoir and
possibly change some of the flare fittings, but if you really want a dual
circuit,
that would be the way to go.
Regards,
Brian Schlorff '61 TR-4 '64 TR-4 '72 TR-6 '79 Spit
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