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Re: Help in removing rear bump stop

To: "List Triumph" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Help in removing rear bump stop
From: "Graham Stretch" <technical-iwnet@lineone.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2000 23:35:11 -0000charset="iso-8859-1"
References: <52F80127D9F2D211A77A0090274EFB9CD73DDF@exchange.calgary.merak.slb.com>
Hi Peter
The bottom blade carrier on a fair few mowers will be alloy or even crap
metal and what I meant to infer was that the heat should be oxy gas and
fairly instant then the heat transferred to the alloy will be minimal. BTW I
and others before me never lost the alloy casting in the heat process though
I dare say it would be a possibility.

Graham.


----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Zaborski <peterz@merak.com>
To: 'TR6 List' <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 10, 2000 7:37 PM
Subject: RE: Help in removing rear bump stop


>
> > From: Graham Stretch [mailto:technical-iwnet@lineone.net]
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 09, 2000 4:17 PM
> >
> > A good technique with stubborn nuts/bolts is to heat the
> > offending item until it glows red then Quench with water
> > the shock combined with the expansion contraction will
> > often destroy any corrosion.
>
> I think the original question which started this thread was about getting
> the rubber bump stop out of the rear trailing arm on a TR6 (or TR4 IRS
> maybe). Are you sure you want to heat an Aluminum trailing arm (or
something
> attached to it) "red" hot and then quench with water? I think I might go
> easy with the heat in this application. JMO of course.
>
> --- Peter Zaborski  CF58310UO ---
>


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