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Re: Easy (HA!)-Out

To: "Michael Ferguson" <fergie@ntplx.net>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: Easy (HA!)-Out
From: "Michael Marr" <mmarr@idcnet.com>
Date: Mon, 10 Jul 2000 10:30:07 -0500
Organization: Virginia Powercharset="iso-8859-1"
References: <200007090319.XAA28620@mail.ntplx.net>
These are my recommendations, based on a lot of experience, caused by the
use of too many breaker bars!

1)  Use the largest diameter extractor you can for the size of stud you are
removing.  Remember, it will take a lot of torque to back that sucker out
(why would it have broken, otherwise?), so the larger diameter of extractor,
the more torque can be applied before the extractor breaks.  HOWEVER,
remeber that the extractor needs to bite into the "wall" of the stud, after
you have drilled the hole in it.  If the wall is too thin, the extractor
will break through.

2) Use an extracor with a large number of flutes per inch so that it really
bites.  You won't need to hammer this kind of extractor in - as soon as you
start to turn it in, it will bite.  The more torque you apply, the more it
will bite.

The attached link
(http://www.grainger.com/cgi-bin/ngs?4533286YXkk1564kk6X987) is an image of
page 1564 of the current Grainger catalog that illustrates the kind of
extractor I use.  I would think that the number 3 or 4 Chicago Latrobe
extractor would work.  The "RECOIL" drill type screw extracors look good,
also, although I have never used them so I don't know how well they work.


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