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Re: Changing Steering Wheel

To: Jim Altman <jaltman@altlaw.com>
Subject: Re: Changing Steering Wheel
From: "Michael D. Porter" <mporter@zianet.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Apr 2001 14:13:29 -0600
Cc: "'triumphs@autox. team. net' (E-mail)" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: alias-outgoing-triumphs@autox.team.net@outgoing
Organization: Barely enough
References: <10F5ED6635EFD411B76600C0F046C9FD9B36@unnamed99.adsl.atlnet. com>
Jim Altman wrote:
> 
> Here is thought no one else has remembered to mention.  After you go and buy
> the socket, Loosen the nut, but DO NOT completely remove it.  You'll be
> yanking on the wheel to get it loose and guess what happens when it comes
> free?  Yup, if the nuts not still there, IT COMES FREE!! If you yank as hard
> as I had to to get it free, it'll impale itself into your face.  (Ask me how
> I know)
> 
> Leave the nut on loosely a turn or two.

Good advice. But, I've usually had good luck in removing all sorts of
steering wheels from many different types of vehicles by loosening the
nut, then whacking the underside of one side of wheel rim and then the
opposite side, with either hand or soft-head hammer. Pulling on the rim
directly from both sides rarely seems to work, except as an isometric
exercise, or with the results described above.

Cheers. 

-- 
Michael D. Porter
Roswell, NM (yes, _that_ Roswell)
[mailto:mporter@zianet.com]

`70 GT6+ (being refurbished, slowly)
`72 GT6 Mk. III (organ donor)
`72 GT6 Mk. III (daily driver)
`64 TR4 (awaiting intensive care)
`80 TR7 (3.8 liter Buick-powered)
`86 Nissan 300ZX (the minimal-maintenance road car)
`68 VW Type II Camper (Lancia twin-cam powered, but feeling its age....)

Remember:  Math and alcohol do not mix... do not drink and derive.

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