Darcy, yours is an interesting question. I do not believe that your
problem is due to anything about the fuel feed
itself. The uneven level in the jets is a major issue. The rear float
level must be too low.
Adjust the float higher to equalize the levels.
Do you have access to a color tune? That might help determine the mixture
condition. Also a CO
measurement from the tailpipe might work. At leat it will allow you to get
the idle mix right. After that
do the following:
After you correct the float level, then take the dampers out (and the oil)
insert a small stick with calibration
marks every 1/8" Observe where the marks come to lie with respect to the
top edge of the chamber.
Start and warm the engine then slowly increase the revs until the engine
develops a miss. Probably it is lean here,
but you can test it by pulling the choke a little and seening if the miss
improves. Ovserve where the pistons have
risen by reading off the marks of the sticks. (they both should be the
same height, btw). This is where your
needles are too lean (fat), you can then remove the needles and mount the
needles in a drill press. Sand down
the diameter at the proper region by a couple of thou and try them again.
Once you find what the correct needle
profile is, you might find one is a very close match, but by now you have
made custom needles for your car which
are just right!
Des Hammill wrote a book on this which is fairly good. It is a little
sketchy in some parts (like exactly how much should you sand off to make
noticeable mixture change!.
I can go into greater depth if you want. Let me know.
-Tony
Message text written by INTERNET:owner-triumphs-digest@autox.team.net
> Date: Sat, 20 Oct 2001 21:33:45 EDT
From: DarcyHunt@aol.com
Subject: HS6's on TR6
I have been reading the list digests for a while now and hope I can get
some
help on the conversion of my TR6 to HS6's. I got what I though were
appropriate items from Burlen Fuel Systems to convert the HS6's I got
that
started out in a '77 TR7. This include the yellow springs, conversion
kit
to
eliminate the waxstat jet, new spindle shafts and throttle plates w/o the
run-on valve, and a few sets of needle using the Moss Performance Tuning
manual as a guide for choices.
My problem, after the rebuild and getting the linkage right is that
performance is good up to 2500 rpm but after that I get terrible back
firing.
I'm running the BAE needles, fuel seems to sit low in the main jet in
the
rear carb (1/4 inch below jet) but good in front carb. I also added Kerr
headers while I was working on the carbs. Any help would be appreciated.
Darcy Hunter
'73 TR6
North Easton, MA<
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