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RE: starter replacement 58 3A

To: <triumphs@Autox.Team.Net>
Subject: RE: starter replacement 58 3A
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2004 13:24:19 -0700
> How easy is it to replace starter on a 58 3A  (TS26412L) with one of
> the high torque lightweight starters while the engine is still in the
> car?

I had no trouble at all doing it on TS39781LO, but it had already been
modified to eliminate the nut on the top bolt.  Even without the mod though,
it should be far easier to put the gear drive starter in than to replace the
old boat anchor.  Normally I take the exhaust loose to put the starter in,
but I didn't this time.

> I had the original starter rebuilt but after just a few months of
> use the starter again cannot turn over the engine. Unfortunately I
> cannot vouch for the "rebuild" job done by the automotive electrical
> place to which I took it (but the price was right!).

I'd say odds are high that the bonded rubber drive has failed internally.
This is an easy thing to overlook if you aren't familiar with these
starters, and I've heard that some replacements fail rapidly.  The remainder
of the early starter is pretty bulletproof, looks like something that
belongs on a tractor !

> Is it any easier with the replacement
> starter from Moss? Any other vendors with a good product?

I got mine from TRF, however I suspect they're all pretty similar.  You
might want to compare prices though, there seems to be some variation.  I
found mine on sale, but I think TSi may have the best "every day" price.

Be sure to get the correct starter for your application.  They look
identical to the replacements for the later starter, but the drive pinions
have a different number of teeth and the later replacement starter will most
likely bind if you try to use it with the early flywheel on your car.

> I worry about
> statements like "may need some additional tweaking " to get the thing to
> fit especially when the engine is in the car.

Mine required absolutely no mechanical tweaking of any sort.  You do need to
change the wiring a bit, I retained the original solenoid and used it to
switch the power to the new solenoid.  That reduces the load on the "push to
start" switch (the new solenoid draws about 6 times as much current as the
original one did), and lets me keep the underhood pushbutton to crank the
engine.

The sound when cranking is a lot different ... doesn't sound like you're
cranking a tractor anymore.  But it sure works nice.

Randall

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