I got my replacement starter on sale from British Parts Northwest
(http://www.bpnorthwest.com/), it kicks butt, and I'm very happy with it.
I think Randall is correct about TSi as well. Never looked at Moss, TRF, or
VB for this although I usually do. Ted Smith at British Auto Restorations
is good too.
It went in easily and it only took me a short while to figure out the
In short - if I can do it YOU can do it....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randall" <firstname.lastname@example.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2004 3:24 PM
Subject: RE: starter replacement 58 3A
> > How easy is it to replace starter on a 58 3A (TS26412L) with one of
> > the high torque lightweight starters while the engine is still in the
> > car?
> I had no trouble at all doing it on TS39781LO, but it had already been
> modified to eliminate the nut on the top bolt. Even without the mod
> it should be far easier to put the gear drive starter in than to replace
> old boat anchor. Normally I take the exhaust loose to put the starter in,
> but I didn't this time.
> > I had the original starter rebuilt but after just a few months of
> > use the starter again cannot turn over the engine. Unfortunately I
> > cannot vouch for the "rebuild" job done by the automotive electrical
> > place to which I took it (but the price was right!).
> I'd say odds are high that the bonded rubber drive has failed internally.
> This is an easy thing to overlook if you aren't familiar with these
> starters, and I've heard that some replacements fail rapidly. The
> of the early starter is pretty bulletproof, looks like something that
> belongs on a tractor !
> > Is it any easier with the replacement
> > starter from Moss? Any other vendors with a good product?
> I got mine from TRF, however I suspect they're all pretty similar. You
> might want to compare prices though, there seems to be some variation. I
> found mine on sale, but I think TSi may have the best "every day" price.
> Be sure to get the correct starter for your application. They look
> identical to the replacements for the later starter, but the drive pinions
> have a different number of teeth and the later replacement starter will
> likely bind if you try to use it with the early flywheel on your car.
> > I worry about
> > statements like "may need some additional tweaking " to get the thing to
> > fit especially when the engine is in the car.
> Mine required absolutely no mechanical tweaking of any sort. You do need
> change the wiring a bit, I retained the original solenoid and used it to
> switch the power to the new solenoid. That reduces the load on the "push
> start" switch (the new solenoid draws about 6 times as much current as the
> original one did), and lets me keep the underhood pushbutton to crank the
> The sound when cranking is a lot different ... doesn't sound like you're
> cranking a tractor anymore. But it sure works nice.
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