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RE: TR3A radiator R & R

To: "Randall" <tr3driver@comcast.net>, <triumphs-digest@autox.team.net>
Subject: RE: TR3A radiator R & R
From: "John A. Wise" <JohnWise@alumni.pitt.edu>
Date: Thu, 5 May 2005 19:36:49 -0700
At 17:22 -0700 5/5/05, Randall wrote:
>It's pretty easy, once you've got the front apron off.  I'd suggest some
>means of marking the wires as you disconnect them, as the original color
>codes aren't always visible.

In my case I fund that the wires coming out of the parking & 
turn/turn signal on the driver's side were reversed I only it figured 
it out one night when I was checking to make sure all the lights were 
working for a drive when I noticed the left parking light was much 
brighter than the right one.  So after determining the wiring error & 
coded the wires with colored electrical tape!

>A 7/16" GearWrench (or equivalent) works well
>for all those bolts under the fenders, might be worth picking up a set if
>you don't already have them.  If it's been a long time since the apron has
>been off, you'll also need Vise Grips (to clamp the nuts in their cages) and
>an assortment of swear words.

Got the swear words covered & have some liquid wrench as well.

>Couple days before you start, spritz all the
>bolt ends with PB Blaster.  They're easier to get to if you remove the
>headlight buckets (but it's not otherwise required, so your call).  Pep Boys
>sold me some square nylon inserts that work better (IMO) than the factory
>ones for holding the buckets to the body and I got some SS screws from Home
>Despot.

Excelent idea.

>You might consider having the radiator fill neck replaced with one that will
>take a modern cap.

You mentioned that before, I glad you mentioned it again - as I will do it.

>That will make it easier to change cap pressure, if you
>want, and to add a coolant recovery system (again if you want).

I have done that already & based on your observation I cut a piece of 
gasket & put it on the bottom of my current cap to make it easier for 
the "vacuum" to suck through overflow hose than the top of the cap. 
So far (about 3 months) it has been working.

>I didn't do
>it when I had my last radiator recored, and now I wish I had.  But don't
>forget you've made the modification, and install an original cap !
>
>Make sure the shroud is in good shape.  If you buy a new one, be sure to put
>several coats of paint on it to seal against moisture and oxidation.

I did buy a new one & plan on painting it when the radiator is at the shop.

>Good luck
>Randall

Thanks for all the good advice

>PS I'm more than ever convinced that 'pusher' fans interfere with airflow at
>freeway speeds.  My Stag runs noticeably cooler on the freeway without it.

I just do not think I have a choice here in the Valley of the Sun 
(prep school for hell).

John A. Wise, Ph.D., CPE

5483 W Potter Dr
Glendale, AZ 85308

(+1)(623)376-9632
JohnWise@alumni.pitt.edu

1960 TR3A TS80422L

http://home.earthlink.net/~johnwise/TR3A.html




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