> 1. Bolting the prop shaft flanges to diff and tranny. Does it matter
> for balance, etc. how the flanges are oriented?
Nope, either of the two ways should be fine. Install and snug up all the
bolts before fully tightening any of them. Since I've had trouble with
Nyloc nuts coming loose, I buy stronger all-metal "prevailing torque" nuts.
They don't come loose. Replace the special bolts if there's any doubt about
them. If you do use Nylocs, replace them every time. MMC will sell you a
box of 100 for $5-6.
http://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?pagenum=2994
> 2. Same question, but for the outer axle shafts between the diff and
> rear hubs. When bolting the flanges to the diff does it matter for
> balance?
Same story.
> 3. The grease zerk in the u-joint; does it have to be oriented a
> particular way, or is not hitting anything good enough?
Not hitting is good enough, but don't forget that the angles become more
extreme as the rear suspension moves. I'm not certain about a TR4A, but I
think some cars have the zerks removed from the halfshaft U-joints for this
reason.
> 4. How snug is too snug for u-joints? Mine rotate without force much
> force exerted,
If you can move them by hand, they're probably fine. The half-shaft joints
are supposed to be a little on the snug side, with no play between the
spider and the yokes. Any play needs to be addressed.
> What other sort of
> things should I be looking for when replacing u-joints?
Make sure the cups are a snug fit in the yokes. There should be definite
resistance, if they go in easily then the yoke is worn and should be
replaced. This sometimes happens when the old joint locks and forces the
cups to turn in the yoke. Loctite "circular parts mount" will work too, if
you get the surfaces good and clean.
If you disassemble any of the shafts, make sure the yokes lie in the same
plane when you reassemble them. They're not keyed, but if the yokes are in
different planes, you'll get vibration.
Randall
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