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Re: Spitfire trouble

To: jimmuller@pop.mail.rcn.net, triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: Spitfire trouble
From: Dave1massey@cs.com
Date: Mon, 30 May 2005 21:48:02 EDT
In a message dated 5/30/2005 5:42:16 PM Central Standard Time, 
jimmuller@pop.mail.rcn.net writes: 
> Haven't yet solved the overdrive problem.  It doesn't like to come 
> out of overdrive.  The problem seems to happen only when it is warm.
> 
> I'm beginning to wonder if the cause is just too much oil.  Last 
> weekend I pulled the solenoid drain plug (as per instructed) and ran 
> it briefly with the rear wheels off the ground.  As expected it blew 
> oil vociferously.  Then I removed the filler plug to re-fill it, but 
> oil gushed out the filler plug too.  Mind you, it was jacked up 
> rather high in the rear, and the oil was bloated with bubbles which 
> would increase the effective volume.  So I couldn't tell if it really 
> was as overfilled as it appeared, nor whether I should drain it until 
> even with the bottom of the filler hole.  I re-assembled and test 
> drove it.
> 
> On returning from a short errand it stuck on after being engaged for 
> only 3 seconds.  As I drove home gently it kept easing in and out of 
> OD.  Once in 2nd gear coming down a hill it dropped out of OD so 
> quickly that it chirped the tires.
> 
> So when I get the chance I'm going to pull the filler plug and drain 
> it to proper level, I guess.  Any other suggestions?  Bill E at QM 
> recommended 30w non-detergent oil, which is what I put in it.  Could 
> this be a factor?

I can't think of any reason too much oil would cause that.  By the symptoms 
it sounds like the cone clutch is getting stuck on the balk ring.  In English 
that means the thing-a-ma-jig is sticking to the whatzit.  The fact that it 
popped out of overdrive rather violently suggests the the oil pressure is being 
relieved but the clutch is not disengaging.  This happened to a friend's TR6 
with a freshly rebuilt xmission and QM suggesting multiple engage/idsengage 
cycles to glaze the balk ring a bit to fix the problem.  

But your's isn't a fresh rebuild, is it?  If that is the case perhaps the 
easiest thing is changing the oil.  Drain out the 30W and put in some synthetic 
gear lub.  I have used Red Line MTL in my TR6 with good results for many years. 
 But finding it is problematic.  You can get it mail order like I did (I 
bought a case so if you want me to send you a couple of quarts let's talk) or 
go 
to your GM dealer and ask for the manual transmission lub (which may very well 
be the same d*#@m stuff private labeled for all I know)

Cheers


Dave Massey
57 TR3
71 TR6
80 TR8




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